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Inishturk Sweater Knit-Along: Choose Your Yarn & Make a Gauge Swatch!

January 21st, 2010

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It is a thrill for me to host another Knit-Along with all of you!   I am really looking forward to making this great Aran knit pullover named the Inishturk Sweater.   It didn’t take long for me to decide to make this one for myself.  It has been quite the winter so far, and still a lot of winter to go.  I’m really anxious to get started and make a new sweater — and I hope you are, too!

I have printed my pattern for the Inishturk Sweater, and you can print your copy out anytime you wish.  Now, what size to make?  Many times, my knitting students have wondered what size to make a sweater for themselves and I tell them to measure a sweater they already love to wear.  I have a favorite pullover that is one I wear again and again.  I measured across its chest and it was 21″ — so it is a 42″ bust.  Looking at the sizes of the Inishturk sweater, I’ve decided to make the medium, which is a 44″.

I’ve decided to make this great Aran knit in the Fishermen’s Wool, because I love to work cables in a natural fiber or a yarn that has some wool in it.  The cables just seem to look better in a fiber like wool.    I chose the Oatmeal color that will go with almost anything I will wear.  For my size, I will just need 3 skeins of the Fishermen’s Wool!

Fishermen’s Wool is a “Category 4” medium worsted-weight yarn.  If you don’t want to use the Fisherman’s  Wool, there are other great yarns that would be great with this pattern. Other yarns I think would be great would be Wool-Ease (a washable wool-blend), Vanna’s Choice (with its huge array of colors), or Cotton-Ease (with its cool hand and great drape) to name a few. (The latter two are good choices for those who are sensitive or allergic to wool.) Any yarn that gives a gauge of between 16-18 sts =4″ will work, but solid colors will show the cables the best.

Once you have your pattern, yarn, and know what size you would like, a swatch will be what will guarantee a sweater that fits.  Although there are different stitch patterns used in this pattern, the gauge is given for the Double Seed Stitch pattern.

Now, here is the thing about swatching with the Double-Seed Stitch — and I only know this because I remember panicking while knitting a project I made using that stitch pattern years ago —  I thought I would show you what happens when I work that stitch alone:

It can slant!  Not to worry, because when this stitch is dampened or worked within a pattern, it straightens out.  So, here is how I did my swatch.  I cast on 26 stitches and knitted for 5 or 6 rows, then I knit 3, worked the next 20 stitches in the pattern, and knitted the last 3.  I kept the garter stitch border, worked my pattern for 4″ then, knitted for another 5 or 6 rows and bound off:

Then, I dampened and dried the swatch and all I had to do is measure between the garter stitch border.

(1/26/10 – Swatch photo updated; original swatch photo was squished by the scanner.)

What size gave me the gauge?  A US 10 — glad I made this swatch as my sweater would have been much too small for me with the recommended US 8.

So, I’m ready to cast on and happy we can do it together!

How are your swatches turning out? Have you cast on  your sweater yet? Let us know!

Don’t forget to join our Ravelry or Flickr groups for discussion forums, sharing your photos, and more!

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  • Denise

    I’m two sections into the first panel of the sweater (32 rows) and it’s really coming together. I made a chart so I could keep track and also am running a “life-line” every 8 rows in case I need to back track. The guage was way off for me, I’m using 10’s for ribbing and 11’s for the sweater.

    I love the idea of using the smaller needles but knitting a larger sweater – wish I thought of doing that when I started.

  • Bob

    There is some discussion on Ravelry about gauge in a couple of threads regarding this pattern. I was able to get gauge using #9s but the fabric is see-through. I clicked on the picture of your gauge swatch above and I count 5 stitches per inch. I think the gauge is 4 to the inch??? I have not been able to figure out how to get the correct gauge and NOT have the fabric turn out to be see-through. Any suggestions? Here is the thread I started on Rav about it:

    Heather says: “Hi, Bob – I looked at that swatch picture close again and realize that it must have bunched in a little when I put it on my scanner. That swatch is 4 sts=1” and I will be mailing the picture on to you. Here’s my suggestion and it sounds a bit odd… go up one more needle size. I think what is happening is that you have stretched the fabric during the blocking and it is looking “see through”. Just try your gauge again on a 10, and just dampen it – and let it dry without pins. Blocking is best when you already have the gauge in a piece, and then need to block it to size. Just give it a try and let’s see what happens!”

  • Anna

    I’m learning my first very important lesson on gauge swatching … I nelected to do it, opting to jump right in with my size 8 needles. Now I’ve got about 10″ of the front of the sweater done and it’s going to be at least 3″ smaller around. Oops.

    My game plan is to get the front and back done, pin them together, and see how much too small it is. Then I’ll make an armpit-to-waist length panel a couple inches wide for each side and use it to increase the size (also, figure out how to make the sleeves work with these extra panels). Sound like a good plan? I’m not starting over at this point – I suppose if the sweater is too small for me I will gift it to somebody more narrow.

  • Cindy

    Thanks my yarn is coming tomorrow and I can’t wait to get started.

  • Norma Van Natta

    I am well into the ribbing using my smaller yarn and needles, having done a conversion of 1.3 to compensate. It is obvious that the underarm portion done in double seed stitch is going to be too wide to look good with the rest of the patterns so I am planning to add another panel to the sweater. I have a couple of cables in mind but am undecided on which one to select. I will be adding a total of 40 stitches over the entire round when I do this additional panel, so I will need a pattern of about 8 stitches plus a background dividing stitch on each side. I am thinking of either Twisted Tree or maybe a Claw pattern. We are in the midst of some home improvements, so I’m not having a lot of time to do this, but will try to keep up.

  • <fb:name linked="false" useyou="false" uid="1267851834">Anne Keller</fb:name>

    I finished the back last night and getting started on the ribbing for the front today. It goes pretty quickly once you get familiar with the patterns.

  • Judy Baker

    I made several gauge swatches yesterday afternoon on size 8, 10, and 10.5 needles. Then dampened them, let them dry overnight, and measured them this morning. Size 8 is definitely too small. With the 10s my swatch measured 3.75. The 10.5 swatch was 4.25! aargh! I did the size 10 swatch with a circular needle, so I’m going to try it again with straight needles and see if I can get that extra .25 inch that I need.

  • Donna

    Denise (101) what a good idea with the life-line. I’m going to do that to. Thanks.

  • barb

    I am still working on my swatch.This is my first sweater and KAL. I tried using Vanna’s choice with 9’s, but I didn’t fninish because my stitches were looking like Heather’s.I then switched to the Fisherman’s wool in size 8.My stitches still did not look like the swatch Heather has posted. I haven’t completed the 4 inches yet, but I have counted 24 rows. I don’t think it will change much by dampening and drying. I am thinking of ripping out and trying 10’s. According to my Knitting for dummies book, the double seed stitch row 1 is K2, P2. Row 2 is P2, K2. I am working on a scarf the same stitches, and it does look like Heather’s. Am I on the right track? Thanks!

  • Leslie Buff

    I have done two swatch gauges and I am having trouble getting gauge and do not know what to do. My dilemia is this —- I am using the Fishermen’s Wool and when I used size 8 needle and swatched I got 12 stitches for 2″ for a total width of the double seeded fabric of 3 1/2 inches. Then when I swatched using a needle size of 9 I got 10 stitches for 2″ and my width of double seeded fabric was 4″. I totally did not get even close with size 10 needle and I did not like the look of the big stitches. I am a petite size (normally wear a Petite small to a medium depending on the fabric) and I am 5’0 on a good day, I just do not know what to do, I was going to make the small (40). Any suggestions, Heather or anyone else.

    Heather says: “Hi, Leslie: Just work your gauge over 20 stitches in the Double-Seed and make sure that you dampen the swatch and let it dry completely before measuring. It looks like a 9 or 10 needle will probably be what works for you. Whatever needle you get the closest to 4 stitches to the inch is what you should use. It also sounds like the small size will work for you as well.

  • barb

    It’s me again, #109. I should have said my stitches in neither swatch do not look like Heather’s. It seems the garter are the more dominant stitch rather than the purl as in Heather’s. I’m frustrated and I haven’t even gotten to the cables yet.

    Heather says: “Hi, Barb: Sorry you are having problems with your gauge – I think the garter edges are confusing you, so here is a simple way to try your gauge. Just cast on 20 stitches and work only in the Double Seed pattern. Then dampen your piece and let dry completely. When it is dry, then measure 16 stitches to see if you get the 4 inches.

  • Kathryn

    My first KAL. I’m so excited! I’m using Fishermen’s Wool – as pattern suggests. I’m right on with gauge using needles listed.

    I’ve just finished the ribbing & came back to “Comments” to find out what method of “increase” to use when adding additional 22 stitches. (Found my answer [#93], thank you.) But, now I find the term “life line” mentioned in a couple of comments (#101) (#108). I would like to have one. Please explain what it is and how you add one. Thanks.

  • Anna

    Life line:

    I’ve never used one (never heard of them until now), but now I can think of several instances when I wish I’d used them! :)

    That said, once you get the cables down they’re not that difficult. Use stitch markers between the panels to keep track of where in the row you are and after the first 16 rows everything goes pretty smoothly.

  • Judy Bishop

    Another trick to keep track of what row you’re on: I penciled in row numbers for all the other pattern stitches up to row 16 so as to match panel B. For example Panel A row 1 is also row 9, Cable C row 1 is also row 13,9, and 5. That way I can keep my row counter going from 1 – 16. I started this after realizing I messed up Cable c by repeating row 3. (another symbol of being homemade).

  • <fb:name linked="false" useyou="false" uid="1447660425">Marianne Gaudio Spencer</fb:name>

    I finished the ribbing yesterday afternoon, and last night started the pattern on the back. I’ve also marked off all major panels/sections with stitch markers to help me keep place … which I’m glad I’ve done since I think I just made a mistake that I’ll need to backtrack for, but this way I can look at it by section instead of counting out stitches. The markers help me to “see” the sections easier. The markers I have came in three colors, so I’ve tried to color coordinate as best I can to keep some semblance of understanding of the row as a whole!

  • Mary Lee in Illinois

    Anna, 113 Thanks for the link to Knittinghelp. I too did not know what a lifeline was. That link was very helpfull, I have bookmarked the site for future reference. Judy 114 Thanks also to you for the suggestion on the row numbering on the pattern. Wish I had done that yesterday. I too have missed or repeated a cable and not sure where it is. How do you count the knitted rows to determine what row you are on. Is there a better way other than just counting the stitches. It is hard to detemine where the pattern started on my piece and I am not sure if I am on the 9th or 11th row. Note to self, do not watch TV while establishing a cable pattern! Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Heather says: “Hi, Mary Lee – I like to write down on a piece of paper where I am in each pattern just by making “hash marks” I write down the pattern and row repeat #, then I just make marks on the paper after every row. I’ve done that ever since my cat knocked my multi-row counter that had pegs in it!

  • Inge Schultz

    I did my swatch using Wool-ease Natural Heather 98 on size 8 circular needles and found if I keep my tension on the loose side my gauge works at 4 stitches = 1 inch. I love Wool-ease for its machine wash and dry. If 4 stitches = 1 inch and I want to have a comfortable loose sweater at the finished chest size of 48, I divide 48 by 2 and get 24 and times that by my 4 stitches and it equals 96 stitches total, plus you need two extra stitches for the selvage per notes [#2] stated on the pattern, which would give me 98 total stitches. So I can follow the pattern using Wool-ease by going with the small size by casting on 98 stitches.

    My question is how are you doing the selvage stitch since this is a part of the pattern? I understand that there is more then one way of doing a selvage stitch.

    Heather says: “Hi, Inge: The 4sts=1” gauge is only for the Double Seed stitch. All the other patterns are going to pull in the fabric greatly, so you need to use the number of stitches called for for the size sweater you want to make. Also, you mentioned that you found you had to knit loosely on the 8 to get the gauge. Instead of doing that, I would just go up a needle size and knit as you normally do. The selvage stitch is just worked in the pattern as a knit on the right side and purl on the wrong. Some knitters like to just slip the first stitch of every row, to tighten up the edge – that is up to you. Good luck starting the sweater1

  • Barb

    Hi Heather,
    It’s Barb #111,again, thanks for your help. I ripped out the first swatch and have restarted using the 9’s in only the double seed stitch. Is it alright to reuse my yarn from the first swatch?

    Thanks Anna,#113, for posting the website for the lifeline. It was very helpful and I have it bookmarked for future use.
    The KAL has been a fantastic learning tool.

    Heather says: “Hi, Barb – I’m so happy you are learning new thing with our KAL! You can certain reuse your yarn for the next swatch, but if your yarn looks a little worn after swatching, you may want to start new for the sweater itself.”

  • Connie in Texas

    This is my first KAL and really enjoy everyone’s comments and I love this pattern. Here’s what worked for me to keep track of pattern sections and rows. Definitely use markers as you knit to keep track of the various pattern sections. I don’t like the plastic rings, so I made my own using 3 strands embroidery floss and size 10 crochet hook: ch 8, slip st in 1st ch to form a ring, 14 sc in circle, finish off. You can make these in any color.

    For pattern rows I use a row counter and index cards as suggested by someone in an early post (don’t remember who). I have one 4×6 index card for each RS row with detail instructions for each panel, color coded to match my markers. As I knit, I only have one card in my lap for the row on which I’m working. This has worked like a charm and I’ve now done two pattern repeats with no problem.

  • Jeannine

    I read some of the comments people already posted on the pattern and decided to start on the sleeve to slowly acquaint myself with the cable panels. I am also planing on knitting this sweater in the round (sleeves with dpns). That way I can try it on as I go to make sure it fits – and can make adjustments as needed before I get too far along. As an added perk, I don’t have to seam nearly as much. I am trying to think of a way to join the shoulders without seaming as well. (Can you tell I hate seaming?)

    I found I had to readjust my division of stitches after I started the pattern rows so I wasn’t splitting any of the cable panels on two different needles. I am one and a half repeats through on the panel A, and the patterning is definitely getting easier as I go – hopefully faster too.

    I took the time to chart the pattern out so I wasn’t shuffling through three sheets of paper and have found that very helpful. I found a free online charting program that was quick to do and simple to use. (

    I am also loaded with ring stitch markers at start and end of each cable repeat, start of the round, and front and back of the double seed. Horizontally, I am using locking stictch markers to note where I am doing the increases so ‘if’ I get interrupted I can follow where I need to make the increases. I think there is more plastic markers on my needles than yarn, but it’s keeping me organized so far.

    To Judy #107, I was also 3 3/4″ over 16 stitches on #10s and decided to do a bit of math and added a stitches so my final size would line up with the pattern sizes. (I got tired of making swatches and my #10 fabric looked quite nice.) The extra stitches that I needed to add I am working in double seed.

    To Inge #117, I would want to caution you as the cables will pull in more than the double seed. I wouldn’t count on the entire sweater being a 4 stitch per inch gauge, just the double seed. If you want a final sweater size of 48″, I would suggest that you make a large with the number of stitches listed in the pattern for that size.

  • KB

    I have been reading all the comments and have learned a lot, even tho I have been knitting a long time. The KAL is my very first one and I hope it isn’t my last.
    I wasn’t going to do this pattern because I am very tiny and size 40 is going to be “large”. After reading how everyone seemed to be having trouble making gauge I was hopeful mine was going to be too small too, which would have made the sweater smaller. I found some acrylic in my stash and of course mine came out perfect with size 8.
    I have the ribbing done (I only did 2 1/2 inches) and will now start the pattern, My plan is to do at least the first 16 rows and measure it against a sweater that fits me. If it is too big I will have to decide who to give it to or start again with smaller needles. I am doing it in the round – I think I hate seams as much as #120.

  • kdoubrley

    You very tiny ladies could leave all the seed stitches off of the edges or, alternatively, you could leave out one of the smaller cable panels on each side to get almost the same look but reduce the width of the fabric. If that interests you, I can measure the width I am getting on various panels which would give you an idea what to omit to achieve your ideal size.

  • Lisa

    I knew something was up when my swatch came out perfect the first time using the needles suggested. I just finished the ribbing and realized I used my sz 8 instead of 7. Anyone know just how much this will make a difference if I keep it that way. Or should I rip it out and start over on the correct needles.

    Heather says: “Hi, Lisa: Oh, I think we all have made that mistake before! (Or forget to change the needle size after the ribbing!) If you like how the ribbing looks, you can keep it that way – it just will not pull in as much at the bottom. If you are unsure, you can start the ribbing for the other side and you will see pretty soon which one looks better. “

  • Donna

    I have a question. Is there a secret as to where to put your cable holder when you aren’t using it? Mine falls off the chair arm, slides off my lap, or gets stuck and falls someplace and I end up fishing for it a lot. I’ve thought about trying to figure out how to tie a long string on it but haven’t figured anything out yet. Does anyone have a tip? Thanks

  • Judy in Texas

    Donna I wind up sticking my cable needle in my mouth most of the time to hold it for the next row I need it. I don’t suggest that. I do have a little knitting tools bag that has a netting pocket on the outside and I stick it through the netting to keep it handy. Anything with a small pocket could work.
    I am about 1/2 way through with the back. I like it even though the work is not a tight knit using the larger needle size because I am making it to wear as an over sweater like a jacket and not a blouse. I can see how I might finish in 6 weeks.

  • Donna

    Judy, after I posted that I tried to stick it between my glasses frame close to my ear. It worked okay but kept getting lost in my hair. Now, I’m trying to slip it under my wedding ring, it’s worked pretty good so far. I’m really enjoying doing this sweater, I’ve never done such a detailed pattern and never a sweater but I’m really liking how it’s turning out. I’m not halfway on the back yet but I am going to push to have it done in 6 weeks. If I don’t I won’t be able to wear it until next winter.

    Heather says: “Hi, Donna: It is fun hearing where people keep that cable needle while they are not working cables! I’ve also found attaching it to your knittting, expecially behind one of the smaller cables keeps it from getting lost. Keep the ideas coming!”

  • Marie

    Donna, I usually just slide the cable needle into the knitted piece a few rows below where I need it, and when I come around to the next cable it is there for me. I wouldn’t recommend leaving it around for the cat to get though. (Done that already) LOL. Haven’t gotten my yarn yet, or done my swatch (insisted I had to finish the last sweater first). I will be picking the yarn up tomorrow and getting started. Glad for all the advice.

  • Mary Ann Mijanovich

    My first adult sweater! What a pattern. Judy 114, I also noted the rows of Cable C & Panel A to match the 1-16 of Panel B. But I decided to write out 4×6 cards (as someone else suggested) to keep all instructions clear for each odd row. Only need to make cards for 1, 3, 5, 7,etc. Then will use one card at a time. It is helping me sort out the pattern as I copy the instructions. I also plan to use a row counter. It seems like a lot of work now, but I’m hoping it will pay off with not having to pull out rows… I already have my “homemade” signature since I forgot to change needle sizes when doing the pattern set up row – but since it IS the back side & only I know about it… I’m not ripping out. Hoping my flash cards help keep me organized & go faster than flipping sheets. I’m looking forward to seeing a pattern chart when it’s posted. This is the most complicated piece I have done but it still looks doable!

  • Kelly

    I’m just finishing up on the second set of 16 rows. I love it!! Mary Ann, you will love the cards. That is what I did and am able to keep track of the patterns quite well this way!! It’s fun to work on but my day job comes first of course. I’ve never done a KAL and really have learned alot. Thanks everyone and Happy Knitting!!!

  • kdoubrley

    About cable needles. Sometime ago I began stubstituting a bobby pin for a cable needle. I held the stitches on that, knitted the others, then returned the held stitches to the left needle to knit off. Worked well and did not slide out as that annoying cable needle will.

    But then I tried something new: now I knit all the stitches to be croseed, slide them off the right needle, reorganize them with my fingertips and slide them back on in the new order. No cable needle is required. I like this method even better. I’ve knitted the last several cable projects using this Drop and Swap technique.


  • kdoubrley

    I have measured my cables for the benefit of petit knitters who need to reduce the pattern from its minimum size.

    Small cable is 1/2″ by itself
    Cable C is 1.25″ by itself and 2″ between the 2 columns of knit stitches on either side of it
    Panel A is 4″ from one column of surrounding knit stitches to the other.

    Hope that helps some of you figure out how to get the size you need by omitting just enough from the pattern to make it fit you.


  • Holli in Memphis

    I’m into the home stretch (4 rows left) of my 3rd repeat. I think I’ll try that drop and swap method from post 130. I don’t love my cable needle. I’m hoping to get at least halfway done with the back today.

  • Barb

    SOS! Barb is having trouble with the double seed stitch for the gauge. I am #109, 111, 118. I have ripped out my swatch for the third time. This swatch is looking like the regular ribbing. Could someone explain rows 2 & 4. My knitting for dummies book shows this stitch as R1 K2, P2, R2 P2, K2. which does not look like the work posted for the swatch. The stitch finder on this site does not show the double seed stitch.

    Thanks so much!

  • Holli in Memphis

    Barb, here’s DSS per this pattern.

    Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
    Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
    Row 3: *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
    Row 4: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
    Rep Rows 1–4 for Double Seed st.

    For Row 2 you k1, p1 to the end and Row 4 you p1, k1 to the end. When you are looking at the work as it faces you on the wrong side you knit knit stitches and purl purl stitches

  • Barb

    Thanks Holli in Memphis for your help with the double seed stitch. I’ll give it a try.

  • Chris

    barb 133 – the same stitch can sometimes be called different things. I think of a double seed stitch as the K2, P2 you described. Your book might have the stitch we’re doing listed as “moss stitch,” which is what I’ve always known it as.

  • Barb

    Chris 136,
    Thanks for the post.You’re right, my book does show this as a moss stitch, with a slight variation, but looks the same. Swatch is ready to be dampened.

  • ulli

    I am doing the cable set up on 120 stitches and im lost, my first cable sweater and I cant get the set up row right, I end up being done in the middle of last pattern, can you tell me the correct way to do it? and thats skipping the beginning and ending double seed stitch HELP Please

  • Anne – Palo Alto, CA

    Hi ulli,
    All sizes use the same number of stitches for the cable patterns, and the various sizes are achieved by adding double seed stitch on the sides. Since you are working with 120 stitches, it looks like you’re making the size small. Did you cast on 98 stitches for the ribbing and add 22 stitches on the last row? Size small has a narrow panel of double seed stitch that is 5 stitches wide, counting the selvage. I may not be understanding your question correctly, but if you skip the double seed stitch panel it will throw off the cable patterns. If you’re getting to the end of the row before you have finished knitting all of the cables, you may not be reading the directions correctly. Since you’ll only be knitting the pattern set up row once for the back and once for the front, it might pay to use a pencil and tick off every stitch as you go. Take your time to get this row right. I probably didn’t help at all, but maybe you can give more details on the trouble you’re having.

  • Donna

    Thanks for all your ideas for holding the cable, I’ll probably give them all a try and then pick the one that is easiest. I thought about taking those little elastic bands for ponytails and putting one on my pinky finger and sliding it in there. I think it will stay better than under my ring.

    kdoublrey (130) I’m going to try that cable trick later tonight, sounds like it might even solve my cable stitch holder problem *smile*

  • <fb:name linked="false" useyou="false" uid="759329373">Judy Baker</fb:name>

    I guess all the swatching I did loosened up my grip! It looks like size 9 needles are going to work for me instead of the 10s! I work four days per week and am taking two college classes online so I don’t have much time for knitting right now, so I will be progressing very slowly! Maybe I’ll get started on the ribbing this weekend.

  • Leslie Buff

    Heather, I really need some advise. After swatching for three days, I am truly in a dilema once again. I even went to my favorite knitting store, and there answer was that since I wasn’t on gauge that the Fishermen’s Wool would not work for this project for me, do you agre? As I said in previous posts, when I used 8 needles I got in double seed stitch over 20 stitches 3 and 1/2 inches or 6 stitches for 1 inch. In size 9 needles I got 4″ in double seed over 20 stitches but was 5 stitches per inch. And then in needle size 10 I got 4 and 1/4 inches in double seed for 20 stitches but was at 5 stitches per one inch. I know how important gauge is to a project that fits right so I am troubled as what to do, give up on the project. As I have said in my other posts I am a petite person normally a size small, who is right at 5 foot on a good day, with a bust size of 34. I need some help. Thanks!!!!

    Heather says: “Hi, Leslie: Sorry you are having a problem getting the gauge for this sweater. The Fishermen’s Wool will work with this pattern, so I think this is what you might want to do. Make a swatch of 20 stitches with your 10 or even 10 1/2 needles. Work up for about 4 inches and bind off. Then dampen your swatch and let dry completely. Then measure only 16 stitches inside the swatch to see if there are 4”. Don’t worry if the fabric is not dense, as the cable patterns make this yarn work very well for the sweater. I hope this helps you and that you can start casting on soon!

  • Pingback: Inishturk Sweater Knit-Along: Beyond the Ribbing & Sorting Out Patterns | Lion Brand Notebook()

  • Inge Schultz

    Just wanted to say thanks to Heather and Jeannine for the good advice. I’m following the pattern for size large but sticking to needles size 7 and 8. I was using wooden circular needles size 8 which made the tension more loose, but I change to aluminum circular needles, which I can knit faster on plus my tension is more even. I have one inch to go on the ribbing before setting up the pattern. Looking forward to the next instruction segment and hoping for more good advice on following the pattern.

    Zontee says: Hi Inge, the newest post went up this morning. You can read it by clicking here.

  • kdoubrley

    For anyone interested, I have described my bobby pin and drop and swap cabling methods a bit more fully on the hand knitting page on my website.

  • kdoubrley

    I don’t want to fall behind but after awhile, I get tired and tense so I’ve found a way to relieve “cable anxiety” and keep knitting. when I get tired of working on the back I do a bit on a sleeve. It is so much smaller and less complex that it feels like vacation! I have memorized all the patterns by now except the big center panel on the front and back so I don’t have to consult my notes all the time while working the sleeve.

  • KB

    Thank you Kathryn 122& 131. I am still getting this started, I have another sweater I am knitting which has to get finished but am doing both. I really appreciate all the advice everyone is giving. It is going to be real helpful.

  • Cindy

    Hi all my KAL’s

    I was just wondering how far along everyone is, I have am 1/2 way through my very first panel.

    Since I am doing it in the round, with lots of stitches it is very slow going. I am trying not to get frustrated but just breathe and enjoy the experience.

    Have to admit I was totally freaked out at the beginning when I saw all the intricate patterns but I just decided to take each step as it came, make sure I had all my markers in place to correspond to the colors for each pattern, which I will admit did take a lot of time, but now that I am finally knitting it was totally worth it.

    Hope everyone is enjoying there experience and know we will all have beautiful sweaters when we are through!

  • Linda

    I am not sure if this is right place to ask a question. I just finished the ribbing and about to increase the stitches on the next row. Are the increases done in a ribbing pattern or do you just knit that row with the increases.


    Heather says: “Hi, Linda: That row is done in ribbing – and you can check out the hints on increasing at my newest post:

    Happy Knitting!”

  • Donna

    Linda, I did mine in the ribbing pattern. It turned out okay.