Surfing around my favorite design blogs and websites, I sometimes stumble upon some really unique ways in which designers are using knitting and crocheting to get inspired and to make out-of-the-box projects, and today’s blog post is another great example of that.
We often think of knitting and crocheting as crafts to make small wearable things, but design studio Ladies and Gentleman has played with scale to crochet rugs with cotton rope, inspired by traditional crochet doilies.
Via Oh Joy!
The pieces to my Inishturk sweater are looking good with the front and back done and the sleeves still coming along. Some of you have finished (congrats!) and some have just begun (welcome!), but most of us are still “in progress.” Many times, when I sew together a sweater, I just lay the pieces out and start sewing if the pieces are close to the correct size. But before of you do, some of you will want to block the pieces. Why? Some of you have noticed how the cables have pulled in the fabric, as cables like to do! For example, my back is supposed to measure 22″ inches across, but after I knit it, it is only 20″.
Even if your gauge is right on the mark, this happens because of the cables. So, before I sew together a sweater that has a lot of cables, I just gently block it to size with a spray bottle of water. I simply spritz the front and back of a piece with water so that it is damp, let it set a minute or two, and then just gently pull or shape it to size. Next, I let it dry completely. Since I used the Fisherman’s Wool, the natural fiber just eased up almost by itself! Here it is at 22″:
My arms are usually a little longer than most patterns call for, so I like to put my front and back together first, work the collar, and then I put the sweater on to see just how long I would like my sleeves. This pattern is easy to adapt the sleeves – you can just make them shorter or longer without having to worry about any sleeve cap shaping.
Before I can do that, I need to sew those shoulders — but I’ve decided not to sew them at all! This pattern is perfect for working the 3 needle bind-off to join the shoulders. So I put the stitches of the shoulders back onto needles, worked the 3 needle bind-off, and I couldn’t have sewn a better seam if I tried! See the results below:
Now I just need to pick up stitches for the neck. I really like this pattern, because it tells me exactly how many stitches to pick up and where to pick them up. Knitting this collar in the round leaves even less seams to sew!
(As always, photos above with outlines and highlighted techniques are “clickable” for more details and/or information.)
How are you coming on your sweater? Let us know, or share photos by joining our Flickr group!
Get more support at:
Recently, I had the pleasure of being invited back to my alma mater, New York University, to speak to the Stern School of Business’s Scholars, a group of the top students in their respective class years. I was asked to share my experiences as the president and CEO of Lion Brand Yarn Company for the last 7 years and a member of the company for the last 40 years. My talk was followed by a Q&A — and this group being of future business leaders, I was happy to be put through the paces by, and to share my experiences with, these students.
They asked me about our iPhone app, working with our many retail partners, the challenges of being a part of a family-owned and operated business, and surviving—and thriving—with the ups and downs of the knitting and crochet yarn industry as it has evolved over the last several decades.
As always, it brings me great satisfaction to give back to a community that has contributed to my success and to talk about this company, which I love.
One of the many things I enjoy about both knitting and crocheting is that they both tend to be fairly straightforward. You start with X number of stitches, work them in stitch pattern Y, and when you’re done, you have project Z completed.
Except sometimes, it’s not all that straightforward. There are increases and decreases to be worked, colors to be changed in and out, stitch patterns to be changed between, finishing to be done…you get the idea. Once you start thinking about all that, your nice, easy hobby becomes a bit more daunting. There’s no reason to panic, though — all these things are really, when it comes down to it, still pretty straightforward.
Let’s take a look at increases, for instance. When you encounter an instruction for an increase, try not to over-think it. Most of the time, the instructions are pretty literal.
In crochet, the most common increase is to work two stitches into one (e.g., “2 sc in next st”). This can be a little confusing if you over-think it, but it’s really literally just what it says: you make a single crochet (sc) into the next stitch just as you normally would, then you go back into that same stitch and make another sc. That’s all there is to it. (Note: it doesn’t have to be a sc — this increase can be done with any type of stitch.)
Knitting increases are a little more complicated. Some involve making a completely new stitch between two other stitches, like the yarn-over (YO) or make 1 (m1). One of the most common, however, is the kfb, which stands for “knit in the front and back of the stitch.” There is one little trick to this stitch, and that is that after you make the first knit (into the front of the stitch), you don’t complete the ultimate step of removing the worked stitch from the left needle; instead, you immediately make the second stitch (into the back of the stitch). Only then do you remove the worked stitch from the left needle.
See? Increases are nothing to fret about!
One thing that will help you keep on track is to check your total stitch count whenever you’re given a reference in the pattern. It’ll look something like this at the end of a row: “– 15 (17, 19).” If your stitch count is correct, you should be in pretty good shape.
Need more help? Visit our YouTube channel for new video tutorials on increasing.
Have you ever seen a pattern you like but hesitated to use it because of the colors? We’d like to help you get started as a designer with some simple steps to choosing the color combinations you prefer.
Today we’ll work with the Mulberry Afghan, #90310. Think about what colors you would like to use. Would you like to give it as a gift to a friend? If so, what are her favorite colors? What are the colors of her living room? If it is for yourself, look at the colors of the room where you would like to display the afghan, think about the colors that make you happy, or even draw inspiration from favorite objects like paintings or even a season.
The best way to select colors is by putting together the actual balls of yarn or yarn swatches. Trying to select colors of yarn based on the way the colors appear on your computer or in the catalog is risky, especially if you are trying to match colors you already have. The colors on the computer screen or in the catalog will never exactly match the actual yarn.
The best way to look at as many color options as possible is to have a color card. We’ll be selecting from the Vanna lines of yarn, so you should order the Vanna’s Choice color card for this project. You may order only this color card for $1.99 and shipping will be free by ordering item #ccvanna. It includes sample strands of Vanna’s Choice, Vanna’s Choice Baby and Vanna’s Glamour yarns.
Once you receive the card, compare the colors of the actual yarn to the colors you would like to match or the colors you want to use. Select 2-4 colors for this project. Then use the diagram above (click to enlarge it, then print it out) to put sample strands of the colors into the spots on the diagram and see how they look together. You can play around with crayons or paints while you are waiting for your color card to arrive to get a general idea of the color scheme, then see if there are actual yarn colors that look like they would fit your color scheme.
A ripple afghan is a great way to experiment with colors and to unleash your creativity. Let us know how it goes!