Lion Brand Notebook

News, Ideas and Information for Crafting with Yarn

Image frame
61

Saturday Morning Hoodie Knit-Along, Part 2: Starting the Hoodie with Thoughts of a Great Finish

February 3rd, 2011

Pin It

I think that if there ever was a “Winter to Knit” contest, this winter would take 1st prize!  It’s great to see so many of you join our Winter Knit-Along (KAL)  and it certainly is not too late to join making the Saturday Morning Hoodie.  Some of you have ordered your yarn, or already have your yarn, or may still be wondering what yarn to use.  In last week’s post, I wrote about how this sweater uses Wool-Ease Chunky – a category 5 yarn – which is a bulky weight.  I had also suggested some other bulky yarns that would work great for this pattern.  Then I saw the blog post here on the Lion Brand Notebook talking about using two colors (two strands) of yarn to make beautiful colors. I brought out some of my worsted weight yarns and found that holding two strands together of worsted Wool-Ease or 2 strands of Fishermen’s Wool, works up great at a gauge of 10 sts = 4” (the gauge in the pattern.)  If you don’t mind holding two strands together, and haven’t found the yarn you want to use, or would like to use two colors together, this is a great option.  Just remember that you will need double the yardage of yarn called for the Wool-Ease Chunky.

Before I talk about how far I was able to get on the Saturday Morning Hoodie, please print out an updated version of the pattern if you haven’t already.  There are a few corrections to the original (they appear in red type in the “Corrections” section and are incorporated in the pattern below), but there is a great addition to this pattern: Many times a pattern for a cardigan will instruct you to work the second front by working it the same as the first front, but tell you to reverse shaping.  For some knitters who have done this before, it doesn’t cause too many problems, but to make this pattern even more accessible, the reverse instructions for right front are now a part of the pattern! Next week, I’ll talk about how the pockets are knit at the same time the fronts are worked, but all the instructions are there for both fronts now.

So, this week I worked and finished the back of my hoodie and I was happy how it worked up, but even happier when I blocked out my back piece.  When I was finished with the back, it, like many other stockinette stitch pieces curled:

This can make the finishing more difficult, but there are ways to make your pieces more “finishing friendly.” When I finished my back, I dampened it with a spray bottle and then just pinned it to the correct measurements (see below).  Many times after I dampen the pieces, I can just gently pull them out to the correct size.  When the pieces dry, they are ready for finishing.  (I didn’t pin the ribbing so it wouldn’t stretch out–but it looks like the schematic to me!)

The other way I made this back “finishing friendly” was to do work my decreases a stitch in from the edge (see below).  In other words, I worked an edge stitch, then either knitted or purled the next two stitches together.  This makes an edge that it much easier to sew to the raglan edges of the sleeves.  I’ll make sure to work the other raglan edges like this on the sleeves and front raglan edges as well.

I’m on to the fronts now and will work that left front with pocket first (I’ll also keep the back handy to compare to the fronts), so let’s continue on together. Keep those fingers busy and keep warm!

Related links:

  • Pingback: Tweets that mention Saturday Morning Hoodie Knit-Along, Part 2: Starting the Hoodie with Thoughts of a Great Finish | Lion Brand Notebook -- Topsy.com

  • Sewunicorn

    Somewhat tangential question here. What kind of board are you using to pin block your pieces? I’m mostly a cross stitcher, just starting to get into the yarn arts and have been following the blog for a little while to get ideas.

    • Anonymous

      Hi Sewunicorn, Heather’s using a standard blocking board for knitwear. If you Google “blocking board” you’ll find many similar makes and models.

  • http://twitter.com/QueenOfDaStitch Knitted Oaks™

    YES!

  • Tracy

    Because I knit left handed is the right side of the front actually the left side for me? I knit me daughter a vest and that is what happened and so it buttons backwards. Any suggestions? Thanks.

  • Zwitsa Kachinski

    I’m really enjoying this project. Is it better to block each piece as it’s finished or wait until the end and do the pieces all at that time?

  • Fara

    This is my first knit a long. I am about half way up the back and so far so good.

    Fara

  • fireyicevamp

    This is my first sweater and first knit along. I’m a bit behind as I was waiting for my needles and now the rest of the yarn but I’m very excited to keep going; already about 10 in up the back.

  • Julie g

    thanks everyone – I think since I only had 2 inches of ribbing and I did the decreases wrong – I may start over on the back…. :) It’s my first REAL garment. I might leave the ribbing and just unknit the last 6 rows…either way – thanks for the feedback. nice! – Julie g

  • Jane

    I’ve been knitting for a long time & find it easier to knit both fronts at the same time. Then I can be sure they’re the same length. Do both sleeves at the same time, too. (easier, since they’re exactly the same.)

    I’m curious about blocking pieces separately… have always blocked after sewing the garment together. Is one way better than the other?

    • KAL_Host_Heather

      Hi, Jane:

      Many times a sweater can be sewn together without blocking. However, I find that for a sweater like this that has curled edges (due to the stockinette stitch) that lightly blocking them and letting them dry makes sewing them together much easier. I sew with right sides facing me, so this helps a lot with those edges!

    • Kris

      I am going to try knitting both sides at the same time too. I like to knit the sleeves at the same time but didn’t think about the fronts. Brilliant!!

  • Marciasmith

    I am making the Men’s Size Large, in the same yarn and color as shown in the pattern. I’m working on the Raglan shaping on the back and so far so good! Was glad for the hint Heather wrote on working the decrease stitches one stitch in from the edge! I have not made a sweater before, so guidance on how to make my sweater turn out looking great are most welcome!

  • Hchissell

    I’ve joined your KAL and have finished the back. Am now working on the left front and looking forward to it’s completion. Great pattern,, thanks Lion Brand.
    Mrsc825

  • Janvankan

    I’m wondering if I’m misunderstanding something. I’m working the decreases in the back. If I decrease every other row won’t that mean in essence that I decrease every purl row and all decreases will be on the same side? Won’t this make it lopsided?

    • Aprilewml

      I don’t know where you are in the pattern but I have decreased 1 stitch at the beginning of the row and at the end of the same row. So, both sides get a decrease at the same time keeping the symmetry. Maybe that will help.

      • Janvankan

        lol! as in one stitch EACH edge. Duh! Thanks so much

        • fireyicevamp

          I had the same conundrum when I was first looking at the pattern! I had to highlight “each” just so I remembered

          • Stasebura

            Wow, that makes much more sense. I was wondering why my top was almost the same size as the bottom part of it. I guess i have a few rows to take out:)

    • Kwisemandle

      I did the same thing until I realized it was not quite right :)

      • Shelly

        Bless all of you for having the same conundrum on the decrease!! I’ve read and reread the instructions until finally checking the blog for an answer…decrease each edge…aha! Makes much more sense now…can’t believe I was confusing myself so much! This is my first garment and I didn’t want to start all over again ;)

  • William Aprile

    Are there any helpful guidelines for sewing parts together? I’m ready to join panels but I don’t think the sewing machine is what I should use.

    • Anonymous

      Hi William, when seaming pieces together in knitting, you should always do it by hand. Click here to see the different techniques to join your pieces together to make it look as polished as possible.

  • Martha B.

    Reading the Corrections and the original pattern is becoming confusing to me. I am at the top of the left front and do NOT understand what’s going on there. It does not say how many stitches to end up with, Do I continue with the instructions for the Raglan and Neck Shaping in the original instructions or do I stop with the Left Front at the end of the Corrections paragraph? Very confused!!!

    • Zontee

      Hi Martha, sorry for the confusion. The corrections have been included in the updated pattern (the notes at the pattern just show you what changed between the two versions), so if you just refer to the updated pattern on LionBrand.com, you should be fine. The number of stitches you should end up with at the end of each row appears after the dashes. For instance:
      LEFT FRONT
      With smaller needles, cast on 18 (22, 22, 26, 30, 30) sts. Work in k 2, p 2 ribbing until piece measures 3 in [7.5 cm] from beg. Change to larger needles.
      Next Row (RS): Knit, inc 2 (1, 3, 2, 0, 3) sts evenly spaced across - 20 (23, 25, 28, 30, 33) sts.

  • Martha B.

    Also, are there more instructions from our instructor regarding the Fronts, etc? I have only seen the discussion regarding the back.

    • KAL_Host_Heather

      Hi, Martha:

      I will be discussing the fronts this week – both the left and the right with pictures of how they are shaped differently. The raglan shaping is the same as the back along the raglan (sleeve) sides of the fronts – but straight up along the front unitl the neck shaping near the top. The fronts (along with those pockets) will the subject this week!

    • Zontee

      Hi Martha, Heather will be discussing the fronts in this week’s blog post. Also, keep in mind that while Heather will be sharing hints and tips, the purpose of the knit-along is not to instruct, but to help you on your way through this pattern by connecting you with other knitters who are also working on it currently. For more support, don’t forget to check out our group on Ravelry linked above.

  • Tracy

    Heather,
    Hi, this is Tracy. The left handed knitter. I knit the left front side and it turned out to be the right side. I guess with left handed knitters the fronts are backwards so I hope the front sides are the same. They look to be the same. I am also wondering on the edging if I need to start opposite of what the pattern says. Let me know what you think. Thanks.
    Tracy

    • KAL_Host_Heather

      Hi, Tracy:

      I have a lot of left handed students – but it appears you actually knit in reverse from instructions that work from right to left. If your fronts are looking like what is in the schematics – then you are probably going to be OK. However, when you pick up your stitches – be sure to pick up from the RS (as in outside) of the garment. I will be covering that later in the Knit Along. This week I will discuss the fronts, so that you can see how the right and left fronts appear. Hope this helps!

    • Sewhappie

      I am also a LEFTY!!!!!!!! knitter and have found that if I do both sides of the front on circulars at the same time it is easier for me to get everything to do what it is suppose to do. I find that I can remeber what it is I am making (at the time) and can see it in my head as to how it should be looking. It may take some getting used to BUT I think you will like the end result.
      I THINK RIGHT HANDED KNITTERS SHOULD ALL CHANGE AND BECOME “FABULOUS LEFTIES” LIKE US!!!!!!!!

  • Sewhappie

    Hi. First let me say I love being able to do this Hoodie and be able to get online help!
    I am @ the decrease section on back piece ( sz XXL) case on is 70 stitches making my center @ 35 stitches to place my marker. Decrease binds off 5 on rs and 5 on ws. Or do I decrease 5 each edge rs & 5 each edge ws?
    As it is now I have 5 EXTRA STITCHES on each side of my center marker making it 28 and not the 18 according to corrected instructions! HELP!

    • Janvankan

      Hi Sewhappie,
      I’m not sure if you’re doing the XXL or the XL. According the pattern you should have cast on 70 for the XL but 74 for the XXL. The XXL also has an increase bringing your total stitches to 75. No need to mark the middle. When you get to the raglan shaping you will bind off 5 stitches leaving 65 or 70, depending on the size, to knit. When you start your next row, bind off the first 5 stitches, leaving 60 or 65 stitches to purl.

      • Sewhappie

        that makes sense to me now. Thanks for your help. I am going to crawl back in my hole now and finish the back…………………

        • Janvankan

          Feel better and ask anytime =)

    • Sewhappie

      Thanks for the reply I see I added one to many “x” ( typing on new phone) I am working the “XL” size.
      I have 70 stitches that decrease down to 60 stitches. Then I do the decreae one on each end 10 times that brings it down to 40 stitches. Now take that down 12 more stitches when doing every other row leaves me with 28 and not the 18 the pattern is stating. Is it a typo or am I missing something here? T

      • Janvankan

        Okay, the XL. 70 down to 60 down to 40 is all correct. Then you’ll decrease EACH end of every other row (this got me too) 11 times (per the corrections) meaning a decrease of 22 stitches (2 x 11) and a total of 18 stitches left.

        • Sewhappie

          this is what is throwing me. If I decrease on rows 1 3 5 7 9 11 thats only 12 so where am I messing up? HELP!!!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! My brain is fried, my head plugged up and my throat hurts :(
          LOVE YOU FOR ALL YOUT HELP!!!!!! :)

        • Sewhappie

          this is what is throwing me. If I decrease on rows 1 3 5 7 9 11 thats only 12 so where am I messing up? HELP!!!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! My brain is fried, my head plugged up and my throat hurts :(
          LOVE YOU FOR ALL YOUT HELP!!!!!! :)

          • Janvankan

            You’ll decrease 11 times NOT rows 1-11. So that will be 22 rows. Then knit/purl without decreases until it measures 11 inches.

  • Millie

    I am nowhere near as far along as you all seem to be. I have knitted a sweater before, but never a button-up (cardigan). When people say they knit “both left and right fronts” at the same time, I am having trouble envisioning that. Does that literally mean casting on the stitches for one side, moving it over, and then casting them on for the second side? And I assume I have to actually separate the two by cutting and weaving in the yarn too (from the beginning). So, am I literally using two different balls (skeins) of yarn too, so they do not “attach” to each other?

    • Edna Dippre

      Millie, I’m just getting started tonight since my yarn finally came yesterday so you are not alone. As a matter of fact, you are way ahead of me! lol…

      As for both left & right fronts together at the same time:

      1- ["Does that literally mean casting on the stitches for one side, moving it over, and then casting them on for the second side?"]
      Yes, cast on sts for one side with one ball of yarn and THEN cast on sts for the other side with another ball of yarn on the same needle. (2 balls working).
      To keep them from twisting too much, turn your work to the right after one row, then turn your work to the left after the next row. Do that back & forth after each row to keep the yarn balls separate.

      2- ["And I assume I have to actually separate the two by cutting and weaving in the yarn too (from the beginning). "]
      NO… Since you are using 2 separate balls, one ball for each front, they will already be separate. Keep them separate!! Nothing to cut & weave in…

      3- ["So, am I literally using two different balls (skeins) of yarn too, so they do not "attach" to each other? "]
      Yes… 2 balls, one for each front side. Right, they will NOT attach to each other. Be sure to drop the first yarn at the end of the row and then pick up the second yarn to do the other side. Also keep them apart by keeping them untwisted.

      *MOST IMPORTANT* part with the fronts: REMEMBER to reverse the raglan shaping! Inside edge for one & outside edge for the other…..
      You can use a piece of contrast color yarn to mark your left side and a totally different contrast color yarn to mark your right front. Just tie one color to the bottom of the left piece and tie the other color to the right piece. Make a NOTE somewhere of which is which though so you don’t get confused…e.g. Red yarn on right piece. Blue yarn on left piece. (or whatever colors you have that contrast your main hoodie color.)

      This can also be done the same way for the 2 sleeves at the same time! But you won’t have to worry about the raglan shaping since they will both be the same from start to finish!

      You will get the hang of it soon enough. Enjoy!

  • Millie

    I meant to mention, I am still on the back, and only about 9 inches up. I got a great start right away, but have not been able to pick it up for days. Have never blocked the pieces of a sweater, btw; but I also have sewn them together from the inside, not the outside…

  • Pingback: Saturday Morning Hoodie Knit-Along, Part 3: The Fronts – Left, Right, Forward and Reverse | Lion Brand Notebook

  • Edna Dippre

    My yarn JUST came in yesterday! I hope to get “started” tonight. I can’t worry about trying to catch up now but will keep checking the blogs for helpful ideas. Good to know you’re all out there.

    My gauge was 3-1/2 with size 13 needles for Jiffy yarn. Still too small with Size 15 but my husband didn’t like the stitches so loose. So I did a swatch with 2 strands of the Jiffy with the 13s & it was perfect!! Who would have guessed?? It’s a Catagory 5 bulky yarn… Good thing I ordered enough to make one for both of us. Now I have enough to make his thicker the way he wants it. It isn’t at all heavy either. If we really like it I’ll get more of the same yarn to do one for me too. I know I’ll have some left over from his as he’s an XS & I’m an XL so I have to get the same color. (Dove).

    • Martha B

      So that’s why Lion Brand is out of so much of the colors!!! I’d just like to get a couple more skeins to keep up…and not loose my place. Kinda just kidding!!!

      • Edna Dippre

        Well, I don’t know about Lion Brand directly but I ordered mine from JoAnn.com.

        I got pretty far on the back last night while my husband was at work. When he got home I held it up to him & it looked small but he had on his heavy robe already. I was going to hold it up to him again this morning but we had to go out in a hurry & when we got back he had to rush to leave for work again! Now I can’t work on it until I’m sure I don’t have to start over with a bigger size!! I wish he’d just hold still a minute!! LOL!
        At least I have some crochet projects started to work on in the meantime but I really wanted to try to get caught up on this hoodie… Makes me wonder if it was meant to be…

  • Martha B.

    I’m trying to find a blocking board — the one(Friskars brand) at WalMart has a cancer warning on it!!! That’s the only one I’ve found so far. Any suggestions?

    • Millie

      That is just weird (the cancer warning). Is it about the material used to make the board? I mean, I would guess you wouldn’t use it enough to take it in through your skin, and it is not like you are going to put it in your mouth.(!) Maybe they have to do that because someone’s baby might put it in their mouth? But as it’s a craft supply item, that seems a bit silly. Let us know, please, if you find a reaosnable one elsewhere.

      • Edna Dippre

        I would think they would have to stop making things with dangerous, cancer causing materials in them!!! I found the same warnings on outside doormats!

        MILLIE…. Did you see my answer to your questions about doing the 2 fronts at the same time??? It’s in reply to your questions under:
        Edna Dippre 23 hours ago in reply to Millie
        Let me know if it made sense to you…

  • Deborah Byers

    I am having trouble with this instruction below. If I follow what it says I will be down to four stitches and it might not measure 10 inches. Then it says AT THE SAME TIME–at the same time as what? How do I decrease and make sure I’m at 10 inches???????Help!

    Next Row (RS): Bind off 5 sts for raglan edge, k to end of row – 15 (18, 20, 23, 25, 28) sts. Continue in St st, dec 1 st at raglan edge every row 0 (0, 2, 4, 6, 8 4, 6, 10, 12) times, every other row 12 (14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 13, 13, 11, 11) times, AT THE SAME TIME, when raglan measures 7 (7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2) in. (18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm) 8 (8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2) in. (20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm), end with a RS row.

  • Morgan

    im finding that the fronts are very difficult ,especially the pockets .can anyone help ??????

  • Pingback: Saturday Morning Hoodie Knit-Along, Part 4: The Nature of a Raglan | Lion Brand Notebook

  • Terry Nocchi

    I am having trouble with the directions as well as Deborah Byers on the Left Front raglan edge decreases. Do you decrease the end of the pearl row and the beginning of the knit row? That would be two decreases. It shortened the row very quickly. Or, do you decrease only on the knit side. Which would mean you would have a decrease every other row? I don’t understand this every row, every other row, AT THE SAME TIME. You doing so much changing on a very few stitches. Please explain.

    Everything else is going well. I am really enjoying this also and don’t want to make a mistake now.

    • Anonymous

      Hi Terry, here’s an explanation from KALer SlugFan in our Ravelry group:

      the “at the same time” here refers to the item directly before and after it. so you decrease every row at the raglan edge 6 times. then you dec every other row at the same time as watching for a certain length measurement (when you reach that measurement, you bind off, regardless of where you are in the decreases).

  • Terry Nocchi

    Zontee – thank you for responding to me so quickly. One additional question – Do you decrease on the purl and knit side on the raglan side. Or is it the knit side only. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

    • Anonymous

      For the section where you decrease on every row, it would be every row regardless of whether it’s knit or purl. During the “every other row” section, it doesn’t matter as long as it’s always the same side. The only thing you’ll want to keep track of is using a k2tog on the knit side and a p2tog on the purl side.

      • Deborah Byers

        but to clarify, the decrease is always on the raglan side, right?

        • Anonymous

          Yes. As the directions say “dec 1 st at raglan edge every row…”

  • Terry Nocchi

    Thank you Zontee, you have been a tremendous help. Have a great day.

    • Anonymous

      No problem! Don’t forget to check out parts 3, 4, 5, and 6 of Heather’s knit-along posts for more tips and tricks as you continue. Click here to see the Knit-Along blog post archives.

css.php