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Wisteria Shawl Collar Pullover Knit-Along: Gauge Swatch and Casting On!

September 28th, 2011

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Hello and welcome back to the Wisteria KAL! Hopefully you’ve had time to get your yarn and needles together because it’s time to dive into the the pattern with the all-important gauge swatch. Determining your gauge is crucial for getting on the road to a successful finished sweater. When you take to time to find the needle size that gives you the gauge of the pattern, you will be on your way to a sweater that actually turns out the size you want it to be!

The gauge of this pattern is 17 stitches over 4 inches (4.25 sts/in) and 24 rows over 4 inches (6 rows/in). To make a gauge swatch for this project, I recommend casting on at least 25 stitches and working for at least 30 rows so you have a nice large swatch to measure over. After I bind off my swatch, I measure both the stitch and row gauge by lining up a rule at the edge of one stitch and counting how many stitches fill 4 inches (see photos below). Make a note of these numbers, then wash and block your swatch. This is important as many yarns change slightly after washing, either shrinking slightly or very often “blooming” and getting a bit looser, so if you ever plan to get your finished sweater wet, wash your swatch! To do so, I soak my swatch in a sink of water for 10 minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water, then lay it out flat to dry. If you are using a cotton yarn for this pullover, you may want to spray block your swatch instead by laying it flat and wetting with a spray bottle. Once dry, re-measure your swatch as shown:
Stitch gaugeRow gauge
Before blocking, using a size 8 needle with Amazing (in Constellation) I had 18 stitches and 25 rows over 4″ x 4″, but after blocking I (magically!) had the exact pattern gauge of 17 stitches and 24 rows! It is not always possible to get both the stitch and row gauge on one needle size, so use the needle size that gives you the correct stitch gauge, but make sure to make a note of your row gauge with that needle size because that will become important when we get to the sleeves. If your first swatch does not result in the correct gauge, make another! If you have more than 17 stitches, your gauge is too tight so try a larger needle; if you have less than 17 stitches, your gauge is too loose so try a smaller needle. You can see more about gauge here.

Once you have determined the needle you need to use to get gauge, let’s talk about the pattern itself. Some of you have been posing questions about knitting in the round and the use of circular needles, so let’s start there. As far as choosing what type of needle to use, straight needles are perfectly fine for this project as all pieces are knit flat, but you also have the option of using a circular needle to better accommodate the number of stitches for each piece. Since I do a lot of my knitting on the subway in very cramped quarters, I tend to knit most things on circular needles to avoid jabbing the people next to me! My preference is for 29-32″ circulars, but for this pattern anywhere from 24″ and up will hold the number of stitches just fine. Just because you are using a circular needle does not mean you are knitting in the round. Instead, treat them just as you do your straight needles by turning your work at the end of each row and working back.

Some of you, however, have asked about converting this pattern to work it in the round, so let me talk about some pros and cons. I know many people dislike the seaming involved in making a sweater in pieces, and I understand the feeling. Often times, however, when a pattern is written in pieces instead of in the round there is a reason: seams provided structure to a sweater so it is less likely to stretch out of shape. This is great to keep in mind for any sweater but especially in this case where the pullover already has a relaxed fit. Although I love knitting in the round as well, I’ve learned from doing other sweaters that sewing seams isn’t that bad and can actually be a very rewarding finishing step. A later post will cover all of the different seaming techniques you’ll need to finish this garment beautifully.

Another important consideration if you still want to work this sweater in the round is to keep in mind what type of yarn you are using: self-striping or a solid color. When working a sweater in the round, you will eventually have to transition to working flat after dividing for the neckline and armholes. If using the recommended yarn, Amazing, the stripes will be much thinner when working the round and will then become much wider when you start working back and forth in rows, which may not be a look you want your sweater to have.

If you are using a solid yarn this is not a concern, so feel free to work as you wish keeping the stretch factor in mind. To convert to in-the-round, you generally want to take the cast on number for the back plus the cast on for the front, subtract 4 (2 stitches each side allowed for seaming) and cast on that many stitches. Adjust this number as needed to make it divisible by 4 so that the 2×2 ribbing still works out. Please keep in mind if you choose to work in the round that I will be working my sweater in pieces and the upcoming posts will focus on pieced construction.

As you start by casting on for the pullover, one final consideration to make is how long you want the body to be. As written, you work for 14 inches to the underarms, but this length is easily adjusted. The pattern does not have waist shaping, so you are free to make the body as long as you wish – this is why this is such a great unisex pattern! If you are following instructions for the similar Newcastle Pullover, the body for that version is already written as 17 inches to the armholes, 3 inches longer than the Wisteria. I suggest measuring a sweater you like the fit of, this time for length, to figure out how long you want to make the body of your sweater. Make a note of this length (I like writing all over my copy of patterns!) because if you make a change it will come into play when we work the front in a couple of weeks.

For now, figure out your gauge and then feel free to get going on the back of your sweater! It starts with three inches of a 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2) followed by your desired length to the armholes of stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row). Next week I’ll talk more about the back of your sweater and how to shape the armholes. Enjoy and see you next week!

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  • Bonniecand

    You will find that not casting off and picking up stitches won’t give the back of the neck enough stability and it will streeeetch out of shape.  Experienced that myself.

  • Anonymous

    GOOD TO KNOW!

    Thanks for sharing.

     

  • Grandsan6, Australia

    Help!!!I am trying to find where the pattern/garment sizes, stitch numbers and quantity required are and cannot find it. I am new to the site and am using that as an excuse although I have looked. Being in Australia,our wool is normally graded by ‘ply’ but going from what I have read from other blogs, this pattern requires size 8 needles. Is that 8us thus 4mm? could you bet back to me asap so I can get started. Thanks, Sandra

    • Grandsan6, Australia

      Bingo! Have just found it and have enough of a purple tweedy like wool that is about the right ply so now all I have to do is pull it out, check I have enough and get knitting to catch up. See all fellow knitters down the track.

    • Anonymous

      The full pattern is available for download here:

      http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L0033AD.html?noImages=

      You will need to create a free account and be logged in to access it, but it’s a quick process! It is recommended on US 8 needles, which are 5mm, but your gauge may vary. Hope this helps!

      • Grandsan6, Australia

        Yes it did and yes, I was logged on and have now got the pattern thank yoi

  • http://twitter.com/louiegthor laurie thornton

    Hi, my name is laurie and I’ve knit and crocheted for many years, just little things, a sweater I began and am about 3/4’s of the way through.  I’m hoping with this KAL, maybe afterward, I’ll gain the confidence to finish it.
    Usually, I’m right on with swatch work, but this time I’m on my fourth swatch, I’m up to size 10 and my gauge is at
    18 stitches and 26 rows.
    Surprisingly, over 7,8 and 9 (size) there is only one or two stitch and row differences.  Any thoughts?
    I would appreciate any insight.
    Thank you.  I love this idea of knitting along!

    • Anonymous

      Hi there. It sounds like on the size 10s your gauge is too loose, so maybe use the 9s? You have a little room to play when blocking if it is a little tight, but if it’s too loose it may stretch out more than you want. Hope this helps!

  • http://www.facebook.com/sallykwright Sally Burke

    Ok, so I’ve tried a gauge swatch twice on size 8 needles….and I’m getting about 19 stitches per inch. I live very rurally and can’t run out to buy larger needles. I’ve only got size 6 and 8 needed for the pattern. I’ve done the math to figure out that at my current gauge, a Medium will come out to a Small chest measurement. Since we’re doing all of the length measurements in inches, and not in rows, can I cheat and just size up my pattern? I’d really like to get started and it will be days before I can go to town for new needles!

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