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	<title>Comments on: 3 Tips for Yarn Substitution</title>
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	<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/</link>
	<description>News, Ideas and Information for Crafting with Yarn</description>
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		<title>By: Paula Randolph</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-41461</link>
		<dc:creator>Paula Randolph</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Feb 2013 18:04:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-41461</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With the Danbury Knit coat pattern on Lion Brand&#039;s pattern page, I did not have over $80.00 to buy the yarn recommended, and the size only goes up to 2x, so I got to use the most beautiful yarn (imo) that I have had for years, it is worsted weight, while the pattern calls for bulky, I knit up a swatch, with two strands held as one, and it was bigger than the pattern swatch by almost double, so I knew that would give me between a 3x and 4x.  So far I have the back done, and it is perfect!  The back is more than roomy enough, since it wraps around to my front by at least 6 inches on each side, so I figure when it is done it will be a 4x, considering the tension.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With the Danbury Knit coat pattern on Lion Brand&#8217;s pattern page, I did not have over $80.00 to buy the yarn recommended, and the size only goes up to 2x, so I got to use the most beautiful yarn (imo) that I have had for years, it is worsted weight, while the pattern calls for bulky, I knit up a swatch, with two strands held as one, and it was bigger than the pattern swatch by almost double, so I knew that would give me between a 3x and 4x.  So far I have the back done, and it is perfect!  The back is more than roomy enough, since it wraps around to my front by at least 6 inches on each side, so I figure when it is done it will be a 4x, considering the tension.</p>
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		<title>By: Different Yarn, New Look! &#124; Lion Brand Notebook</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-38793</link>
		<dc:creator>Different Yarn, New Look! &#124; Lion Brand Notebook</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2012 14:00:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-38793</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] 3 Tips for Yarn Substitution [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] 3 Tips for Yarn Substitution [...]</p>
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		<title>By: mary m young</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-35486</link>
		<dc:creator>mary m young</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Sep 2012 18:58:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-35486</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I think it is a wonderful thing that yarn labels are now numbered for the weight of the yarn.
It takes away alot of the guessing. Many of the high end yarns are not numbered and it makes it a guessing game. Sometime I just go to their website
and figure out from there what type of yarn they are supposed to be. ]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think it is a wonderful thing that yarn labels are now numbered for the weight of the yarn.<br />
It takes away alot of the guessing. Many of the high end yarns are not numbered and it makes it a guessing game. Sometime I just go to their website<br />
and figure out from there what type of yarn they are supposed to be. </p>
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		<title>By: New to Yarncrafting? We've Got Some Tips to Help You Along Your Journey &#124; Lion Brand Notebook</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-31440</link>
		<dc:creator>New to Yarncrafting? We've Got Some Tips to Help You Along Your Journey &#124; Lion Brand Notebook</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2012 18:05:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-31440</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] 3 Tips for Yarn Substitution [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] 3 Tips for Yarn Substitution [...]</p>
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		<title>By: display laptop</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-31396</link>
		<dc:creator>display laptop</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Apr 2012 23:21:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-31396</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&lt;strong&gt;display laptop...&lt;/strong&gt;

[...]3 Tips for Yarn Substitution &#124; Lion Brand Notebook[...]...]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>display laptop&#8230;</strong></p>
<p>[...]3 Tips for Yarn Substitution | Lion Brand Notebook[...]&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Zontee</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-31367</link>
		<dc:creator>Zontee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Apr 2012 13:41:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-31367</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ Hi Kathy, if you go to LionBrand.com, hold our mouse over &quot;Our Yarns&quot; and click on &quot;Yarns by Weight,&quot; you can see a list of all of our yarns by weight (with the discontinued ones marked). Hope that helps!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p> Hi Kathy, if you go to LionBrand.com, hold our mouse over &#8220;Our Yarns&#8221; and click on &#8220;Yarns by Weight,&#8221; you can see a list of all of our yarns by weight (with the discontinued ones marked). Hope that helps!</p>
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		<title>By: Zontee</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-31366</link>
		<dc:creator>Zontee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Apr 2012 13:39:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-31366</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Mary Lou, like Jess mentioned in the blog post, you&#039;ll want to substitute based on both the weight of the original yarn and the texture. If you&#039;re not sure of your original yarn&#039;s weight 
(thickness), try looking it up on a site like Yarndex.com or Ravelry.com. Once you know the weight, try and find a smooth, silky yarn (the qualities of rayon-from-bamboo) in that weight to substitute. Some Lion Brand yarns you may want to consider in the category 3 (light) 
weight include: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/lbCollectionCottonBamboo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LB Collection Cotton Bamboo&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/microspu.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Microspun&lt;/a&gt;. Both are great, affordable options. Hope that helps!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Mary Lou, like Jess mentioned in the blog post, you&#8217;ll want to substitute based on both the weight of the original yarn and the texture. If you&#8217;re not sure of your original yarn&#8217;s weight<br />
(thickness), try looking it up on a site like Yarndex.com or Ravelry.com. Once you know the weight, try and find a smooth, silky yarn (the qualities of rayon-from-bamboo) in that weight to substitute. Some Lion Brand yarns you may want to consider in the category 3 (light)<br />
weight include: <a href="http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/lbCollectionCottonBamboo.html" rel="nofollow">LB Collection Cotton Bamboo</a> and <a href="http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/microspu.htm" rel="nofollow">Microspun</a>. Both are great, affordable options. Hope that helps!</p>
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		<title>By: Troutbum2</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-31308</link>
		<dc:creator>Troutbum2</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Apr 2012 19:49:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-31308</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have been knitting for 3 years as therapy for chemo induced neuropathy and it works wonders.  Thank you so much for the Lion website and all the information and to all these wonderful knitter who offer great ideas.  I have a stash already that would put a knit shop to shame.  I thought maybe there was something wrong with me that I was buying so much.  Seems to be a common knitting problem.  Yea. ]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have been knitting for 3 years as therapy for chemo induced neuropathy and it works wonders.  Thank you so much for the Lion website and all the information and to all these wonderful knitter who offer great ideas.  I have a stash already that would put a knit shop to shame.  I thought maybe there was something wrong with me that I was buying so much.  Seems to be a common knitting problem.  Yea. </p>
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		<title>By: Fearless Knitter</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-31301</link>
		<dc:creator>Fearless Knitter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Apr 2012 16:35:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-31301</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have some additional common sense once you think about it tips for substituting yarn. 

If I plan a bigger project with any yarn, substitute or not, that I haven&#039;t worked with before, I buy extra yarn for small matching projects, for example for a sweater I buy yarn for hat mittens and scarf. I make the scarf first to get comfortable with the yarn. Then I make the sweater. If the pattern takes extra yarn while knitting the sweater, at least I can finish the sweater with matching yarn. If the pattern calls for the right amount of yarn in the sweater, I then make the matching hat and mittens, and if there is extra, I can make longer cuffs on the mittens or an additional accessory.

For another big project, say a kitchen table runner, I buy enough for matching towels and dish clothes for example. There are always small matching projects that let me make sure I have enough without adding much if any left over yarn to a stash. Wrist bands, belts, coasters, cozies for toasters, teapots, drinking glasses, cases for eye glasses. Adding pockets to garments that don&#039;t have them, or more pockets to ones that do.

I guess I take after Lola in the cartoon strip a little, The only reason I buy just barely enough for my main project is if that is all that is available, or the yarn comes as a kit, and there isn&#039;t any available separately.

I have also learned to be able to adjust my tension when knitting, at least somewhat. Sometimes this helps with matching guage, but it does make knitting a little harder with one more thing to concentrate on, so I don&#039;t really recommend this but it is somewhat possible if you really want to make something work out.

If you know that you will need to use two different dye lots you can improve the result a little by doing this in a planned way, for example sleeves in one dye lot, torso in another. Or subtle stripes.. Or get bolder and instead of mixing dye lots mix colors or colorways.

If you really don&#039;t like the result and don&#039;t want to take it apart to reuse the yarn, give it away. Donate it to a thrift store or a homeless shelter or whatever is locally available. If it is warm, someone will  wear it or sleep under it. Maybe the person who buys it in the thrift store for $1 takes it apart and knits something else, or maybe someone buys it for the cat to sleep on. So what if you really really don&#039;t want it.

I have never seen a half finished knitting project in a thrift shop, but I have found very tangled but very pretty yarn in quantity in a thrift shop that looked like someone had frogged an entire project without rewinding, that I bought dirt cheap, untangled quickly and knit. Maybe $40 worth of yarn for fifty cents. I hope whoever gave up on that yarn could afford the yarn easily and didn&#039;t mind getting rid of it.

If the yarn in question is a budget stretcher, or if barely enough is available, or if it is the rare yarn that does not reknit well of course you need to be more careful to get the right amount, and to not make any mistakes. Otherwise, be adventurous. Yarn is a very safe thing to be adventurous with.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have some additional common sense once you think about it tips for substituting yarn. </p>
<p>If I plan a bigger project with any yarn, substitute or not, that I haven&#8217;t worked with before, I buy extra yarn for small matching projects, for example for a sweater I buy yarn for hat mittens and scarf. I make the scarf first to get comfortable with the yarn. Then I make the sweater. If the pattern takes extra yarn while knitting the sweater, at least I can finish the sweater with matching yarn. If the pattern calls for the right amount of yarn in the sweater, I then make the matching hat and mittens, and if there is extra, I can make longer cuffs on the mittens or an additional accessory.</p>
<p>For another big project, say a kitchen table runner, I buy enough for matching towels and dish clothes for example. There are always small matching projects that let me make sure I have enough without adding much if any left over yarn to a stash. Wrist bands, belts, coasters, cozies for toasters, teapots, drinking glasses, cases for eye glasses. Adding pockets to garments that don&#8217;t have them, or more pockets to ones that do.</p>
<p>I guess I take after Lola in the cartoon strip a little, The only reason I buy just barely enough for my main project is if that is all that is available, or the yarn comes as a kit, and there isn&#8217;t any available separately.</p>
<p>I have also learned to be able to adjust my tension when knitting, at least somewhat. Sometimes this helps with matching guage, but it does make knitting a little harder with one more thing to concentrate on, so I don&#8217;t really recommend this but it is somewhat possible if you really want to make something work out.</p>
<p>If you know that you will need to use two different dye lots you can improve the result a little by doing this in a planned way, for example sleeves in one dye lot, torso in another. Or subtle stripes.. Or get bolder and instead of mixing dye lots mix colors or colorways.</p>
<p>If you really don&#8217;t like the result and don&#8217;t want to take it apart to reuse the yarn, give it away. Donate it to a thrift store or a homeless shelter or whatever is locally available. If it is warm, someone will  wear it or sleep under it. Maybe the person who buys it in the thrift store for $1 takes it apart and knits something else, or maybe someone buys it for the cat to sleep on. So what if you really really don&#8217;t want it.</p>
<p>I have never seen a half finished knitting project in a thrift shop, but I have found very tangled but very pretty yarn in quantity in a thrift shop that looked like someone had frogged an entire project without rewinding, that I bought dirt cheap, untangled quickly and knit. Maybe $40 worth of yarn for fifty cents. I hope whoever gave up on that yarn could afford the yarn easily and didn&#8217;t mind getting rid of it.</p>
<p>If the yarn in question is a budget stretcher, or if barely enough is available, or if it is the rare yarn that does not reknit well of course you need to be more careful to get the right amount, and to not make any mistakes. Otherwise, be adventurous. Yarn is a very safe thing to be adventurous with.</p>
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		<title>By: Mdrgault</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/03/3-tips-for-yarn-substitution/comment-page-1/#comment-31299</link>
		<dc:creator>Mdrgault</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Apr 2012 16:25:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=11988#comment-31299</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have never used the yarn recommended. Firstly, because it usually wasn&#039;t available, or secondly, it would cost too much, so gauge is the way to go.  I usually knit every day, so always have to have something on the go.  It&#039;s a little like sewing, when you see a fabric and can envision it in many different ways, or a color just calls to you, and while you don&#039;t know what you will knit with it, you know that some day, it will end up in a fabulous garment.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have never used the yarn recommended. Firstly, because it usually wasn&#8217;t available, or secondly, it would cost too much, so gauge is the way to go.  I usually knit every day, so always have to have something on the go.  It&#8217;s a little like sewing, when you see a fabric and can envision it in many different ways, or a color just calls to you, and while you don&#8217;t know what you will knit with it, you know that some day, it will end up in a fabulous garment.</p>
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