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	<title>Comments on: Great Beginnings: Starting Your Crochet Project Right, Pt. 2</title>
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	<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/</link>
	<description>News, Ideas and Information for Crafting with Yarn</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 15:57:00 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: NM in MN</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-42421</link>
		<dc:creator>NM in MN</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Mar 2013 07:55:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=16775#comment-42421</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Great comment, Dollie! Thanks for sharing. I did not realize I was holding my hook upside down. I am self-taught and never figured that out!! Many kudos for taking the time to point that out!
NM in MN]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great comment, Dollie! Thanks for sharing. I did not realize I was holding my hook upside down. I am self-taught and never figured that out!! Many kudos for taking the time to point that out!<br />
NM in MN</p>
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		<title>By: Dollie</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-41494</link>
		<dc:creator>Dollie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Feb 2013 01:08:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=16775#comment-41494</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#039;ve been crocheting for 63 years and have taught crochet.  I can&#039;t understand why anyone would turn their crochet hook UPSIDE DOWN!  It slows you down because you must turn it over each time to bring it through the loop or it catches on the top of the loop.  Hasn&#039;t anyone noticed that the shape of the hook when held downward matches the shape of the loop?  Turn the hook DOWN and it will speed up your work considerably.  I&#039;ve seen this on live TV, instructional videos and illustrations and am always surprised that anyone would turn their hook up and down repeatedly.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve been crocheting for 63 years and have taught crochet.  I can&#8217;t understand why anyone would turn their crochet hook UPSIDE DOWN!  It slows you down because you must turn it over each time to bring it through the loop or it catches on the top of the loop.  Hasn&#8217;t anyone noticed that the shape of the hook when held downward matches the shape of the loop?  Turn the hook DOWN and it will speed up your work considerably.  I&#8217;ve seen this on live TV, instructional videos and illustrations and am always surprised that anyone would turn their hook up and down repeatedly.</p>
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		<title>By: Zontee</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-41424</link>
		<dc:creator>Zontee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 18 Feb 2013 16:59:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=16775#comment-41424</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Lyz, I think Kj&#039;s note about the next part might help: 
Insert hook in chain of previous foundation stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop. Note: The foundation chain is at the base of foundation stitch, insert the hook under two strands at the base.

You may also want to check YouTube.com for videos, since there are a lot of crocheters who have put helpful demonstrations on that site. Hope that helps!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Lyz, I think Kj&#8217;s note about the next part might help:<br />
Insert hook in chain of previous foundation stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop. Note: The foundation chain is at the base of foundation stitch, insert the hook under two strands at the base.</p>
<p>You may also want to check YouTube.com for videos, since there are a lot of crocheters who have put helpful demonstrations on that site. Hope that helps!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Lyz</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-41386</link>
		<dc:creator>Lyz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Feb 2013 07:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=16775#comment-41386</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[You don&#039;t show the part of fsc (and fdc, etctigh.) that gives me the most difficulty and where I make mistakes: where to insert the hook to start the next stitch. Where exactly is the chain of the previous foundation stitch? I just don&#039;t see it yet... 

I did one project a few years ago where I managed to start with fsc and one side of it was still tighter than the other, as if the chain part of the fsc stitch was still a different tension than the sc part... ]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You don&#8217;t show the part of fsc (and fdc, etctigh.) that gives me the most difficulty and where I make mistakes: where to insert the hook to start the next stitch. Where exactly is the chain of the previous foundation stitch? I just don&#8217;t see it yet&#8230; </p>
<p>I did one project a few years ago where I managed to start with fsc and one side of it was still tighter than the other, as if the chain part of the fsc stitch was still a different tension than the sc part&#8230; </p>
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		<title>By: MimiB</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-41369</link>
		<dc:creator>MimiB</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Feb 2013 13:08:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=16775#comment-41369</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[No matter what kind of foundation row I make, I find I must use go up at least one hook size larger for my foundation row than indicated for the pattern used in my gauge swatch. Once the foundation row is completed, I switch back to the smaller hook required for gauge. It&#039;s an easy solution to a common problem.

 How to tell if you need to do this? Make a swatch in your pattern stitch, at least 4 to 6 inches in width and about the same in length. If the first row, ie, bottom edge or foundation row, made either with a chain or a Fsc or Fdc, pulls in and appears tighter than rest of the swatch in the pattern stitch called for in your project, you&#039;ll need to go up a hook size for that first row of your project so it will lie nice and flat and not pucker. Some yarns and stitches require I go up 2 hook sizes. On the next row, put the larger hook aside and use the hook that gives you gauge for the rest of the project.

Nothing... nothing! is more important than making a gauge/sample swatch before starting a project. It tells you so much. Too many crocheters skip this important step. I suppose if you&#039;re making a familiar afghan pattern or scarf in a yarn you&#039;ve used many times you may be able to skip it, but for anything else, especially a project that needs to be made to size ... take a few minutes and do that swatch. Oh, and do it in the exact yarn your project calls for, because I&#039;ve found that even within the same yarn type, different colors in the same yarn can have slight variations in gauge, feel and stitch definition. You can always frog the swatch later if you need the yarn for your project.

 I recommend not ripping out the swatch until you&#039;re almost done with your project, because you can practice edgings and joining on the swatch, sparing your project the trial and error until you get it right.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>No matter what kind of foundation row I make, I find I must use go up at least one hook size larger for my foundation row than indicated for the pattern used in my gauge swatch. Once the foundation row is completed, I switch back to the smaller hook required for gauge. It&#8217;s an easy solution to a common problem.</p>
<p> How to tell if you need to do this? Make a swatch in your pattern stitch, at least 4 to 6 inches in width and about the same in length. If the first row, ie, bottom edge or foundation row, made either with a chain or a Fsc or Fdc, pulls in and appears tighter than rest of the swatch in the pattern stitch called for in your project, you&#8217;ll need to go up a hook size for that first row of your project so it will lie nice and flat and not pucker. Some yarns and stitches require I go up 2 hook sizes. On the next row, put the larger hook aside and use the hook that gives you gauge for the rest of the project.</p>
<p>Nothing&#8230; nothing! is more important than making a gauge/sample swatch before starting a project. It tells you so much. Too many crocheters skip this important step. I suppose if you&#8217;re making a familiar afghan pattern or scarf in a yarn you&#8217;ve used many times you may be able to skip it, but for anything else, especially a project that needs to be made to size &#8230; take a few minutes and do that swatch. Oh, and do it in the exact yarn your project calls for, because I&#8217;ve found that even within the same yarn type, different colors in the same yarn can have slight variations in gauge, feel and stitch definition. You can always frog the swatch later if you need the yarn for your project.</p>
<p> I recommend not ripping out the swatch until you&#8217;re almost done with your project, because you can practice edgings and joining on the swatch, sparing your project the trial and error until you get it right.</p>
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		<title>By: How to Make an Adjustable Ring or "Magic Ring" in Crochet &#124; Lion Brand Notebook</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-41321</link>
		<dc:creator>How to Make an Adjustable Ring or "Magic Ring" in Crochet &#124; Lion Brand Notebook</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Feb 2013 14:01:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=16775#comment-41321</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] several articles on starting your project right. This is the last of her 3-part series on crochet. Click here for yesterday&#8217;s article, and click here for the previous day&#8217;s article. Join us next [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] several articles on starting your project right. This is the last of her 3-part series on crochet. Click here for yesterday&#8217;s article, and click here for the previous day&#8217;s article. Join us next [...]</p>
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		<title>By: DKTX</title>
		<link>http://blog.lionbrand.com/2013/02/12/great-beginnings-starting-your-crochet-project-right-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-41290</link>
		<dc:creator>DKTX</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Feb 2013 21:50:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.lionbrand.com/?p=16775#comment-41290</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Am I the only one who still has a tension problem with foundation single crochet? Try as I will, that chain stitch is still tighter than the SC. Doing a traditional foundation chain in a larger hook size is the only thing that works for me.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Am I the only one who still has a tension problem with foundation single crochet? Try as I will, that chain stitch is still tighter than the SC. Doing a traditional foundation chain in a larger hook size is the only thing that works for me.</p>
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