Lion Brand Notebook
News, Ideas and Information for Crafting with Yarn
Lion Brand Notebook
News, Ideas and Information for Crafting with Yarn
It doesn’t take long for a new knitter or crocheter to learn about the importance of making a gauge swatch: one badly off-size project usually convinces even the most gung-ho non-swatcher. Learning to make and measure a gauge swatch properly is one of the most important steps on the road to a great finished project. I’ve noticed that most of the knitters and crocheters I know (including myself, I’m sorry to say) tend to skimp on the swatching, doing only enough to make sure they’re getting approximate gauge and then plunging headlong into the project at hand.
By doing this, we’re only short-changing ourselves. Not only can getting the proper gauge solve a number of problems, a gauge swatch can tell you much more than just whether you’re getting the requisite number of stitches and rows per inch. Your gauge swatch is the most important place to start learning what your final project will look and feel like. This is particularly important if you’ve chosen to use a different yarn or even color than the one called for in the pattern.
You might find, for instance, that even though you are getting the correct number of stitches and rows per inch, the fabric you are creating is too stiff or too drapey for the project you’re making. Or you might find that the stitch pattern you love just doesn’t show up when worked in the navy yarn you’ve chosen to work with. Better to find out now than after you’ve crocheted half an afghan! Next time you find yourself tempted to skimp or skip the swatch, remind yourself that even though it might seem like a drag now, you’ll be much happier in the end if you do a full, proper swatch.
Related links:
Posted in Crocheting, Knitting, Tips & How To | 4 Comments »
The film Julie and Julia has inspired one knitter to take her own challenge: knit and blog about all 48 projects from Nicky Epstein’s Knitting on Top of the World. Beginning in January, Mary will knit one garment per month in the order that they appear in the book. She’ll be tracking her progress on her blog. Until then, Mary is preparing by purchasing yarn and supplies, making gauge swatches, and choosing the perfect color combination. It’s an enormous and inspiring task. Best of luck, Mary!
Want to join Mary’s knit-a-thon? Simply purchase your copy of Knitting on Top of the World and join her Yahoo group by clicking here.
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Posted in Community, Knitting, Yarniverse | 5 Comments »
Hello and welcome to the Textured Circle Shrug Knit-Along! This is one of my favorite patterns from my newest book, Glam Knits, and I’m so happy to get to share it with you here.
Before we get started with the knitting, let’s take some time to gather up our materials and all of the information we’ll need.
First, you’ll need the pattern, which can be downloaded here.
Once you have printed out the pattern, start on page 1 (page 83 in Glam Knits,) and read through the information section.
The first thing you need to do is choose a size to knit. The pattern is sized for a range of bust measurements 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54). You can simply choose the size that is closest to your actual bust measurement. The shrug doesn’t actually cover the bust, so if you want to double-check that the size you choose is the right one for you, you can check out the schematic on the second page of the pattern.
Take a look at the measurements given at the bottom edge of the drawing (for a larger schematic, click the drawing or refer to your pattern): 17.75 (19.5, 21.25, 23, 25, 26.75)” This is the cross-back measurement of the shrug. (The measurement of the shrug across the back, lying flat.) You can measure across your own back, from under arm to under arm, and compare these numbers to your own measurement, then choose the size that you think will fit you the best. Because this is a top-down knit, you will be able to adjust the size as you go. (We’ll talk more about adjusting the size in a later post.)
Now that you have chosen your size, go on to the next section: YARN
You will need aproximately 882(1078, 1176, 1470, 1666, 1862) yards of worsted weight yarn. I have chosen to knit the shrug in LB Collection Organic Wool in the Toffee color. You can knit yours in any worsted weight yarn, and will get a great result, as long as your gauge is the same as given in the pattern.
Some alternative Lion Brand Yarns are:
Now that you’ve chosen your yarn, take a look at the next section in the pattern: NEEDLES
The needles that I recommend are given as a guide. You’ll need to knit a swatch and make sure that the gauge that you come up with is the same that is given in the pattern (18 sts and 26 rows in 4″ of textured stripe pattern using the larger needle.) If you end up with more stitches per inch, you may need to choose a larger (US9) needle, and if you end up with fewer stitches per inch, you’ll choose a smaller (US7) needle.
The larger US 8 (5mm) needle is used to knit the body and sleeves of the shrug, and the smaller US 6 needle is used to knit the trim. Do not worry too much if you can’t find the exact lengths given in the pattern. Needles from 24″ to 40″ will work just fine.
Once you have located your needles, gather up your NOTIONS
Now that you’ve got all of your stuff together, start on a GAUGE swatch.
The gauge is given in the pattern as 18 sts and 26 rows in 4″ (10cm) in textured stripe. SO, when you knit your swatch, you’ll want to knit it in the stitch pattern as written on page 84.
TEXTURED STRIPE:
I usually try to make a nice generous swatch, so I cast on 25 sts and work in stitch pattern until the piece looks approximately square.
Here’s my swatch hot off the needles (you can click on the images to enlarge):
And here it is after blocking, showing stitch gauge measurement:
…and row gauge measurement.
You can see from the photos that I do get about 18 sts and 26 rows in 4″ square. (about 4.5 sts per inch and about 6 rows per inch.)
In the next blog post, we’ll cast on together for our shrugs and work through the yoke!
We’re also happy to annouce the two winners of our random drawing for a copy of Glam Knits, commenters #743 Zora and #1017 Mette. Congratulations and enjoy your book!
Related links:
Posted in Community, Knit-Along, Knitting | 66 Comments »
A customer came in the other day to our New York Store, and asked if there was a trick to keeping her gauge consistent. She was working on an afghan made up of many knitted squares. She knew she would be knitting them over a long period of time and wanted to know how to make every block exactly 1 foot square. I told her, “Easy, blocking!”
Blocking is the final step to make every yarncraft project perfect. It can even out your stitches, and make each piece exactly the size you want it to be. If you live in New York, come by the Studio for more information on the the products we carry for blocking, and or blocking class.
Related links:
Posted in Lion Brand Yarn Studio, Tips & How To | 3 Comments »
Two friends were looking at the new workshop schedule and one pointed out the Gauge class to her friend, commenting that she could use that class. Her friend said, “Oh a gauge workshop, the class nobody wants to take and everybody should.”
Genius.
Posted in Lion Brand Yarn Studio | Leave a comment »
The response to this crochet-along has knocked me over…. I’m thrilled by all the enthusiasm! And thank you so much for helping each other out too.
First things first, time to address the subject of a lot of questions: the gauge, sizing, and hook suggested in the pattern. It does seem that there has been a typo regarding the gauge and what hook to use.
In order to make this entry as useful as possible I’ve decided to simplify the issue and not talk too much about all the different measurements from my many gauge experiments. (You can view some of my swatches and notes in the Flickr group.) Because this is a blanket and not a fitted sweater, we have room to navigate around this typo and take advantage of the situation even. It’s true, gauge is usually very important because it gives you the information you need to get the same sizing and drape as the finished product you see in the pattern.
The best thing I’ve seen come out of the confusion over the gauge is how many of you decided to follow your gut and choose the hook and gauge that best suits you. I think this is fantastic! You see, I need a lightweight blanket because I live in a warm climate and someone in a colder climate needs something thicker. So I’ll use a larger hook and she’ll use a smaller one and we’ll each crochet the fabric that fits our own needs. I think that is the best thing any of our blankets can have in common, that each individual blanket is “just right” for the person it will keep cozy.
Yes, folks, I’m all moved and excited about this potential army of blankets that each fills just the right needs for the right recipient. But we might like to take care of a few details so each of us can best plan out these “just right” blankets. See, going off-road with a pattern is far easier if you have a plan.
Follow this breakdown to plan out your blanket:
1. Find what makes the crocheted fabric you like best: Starting with Block 1, the single crochet block, swatch some rows with different hooks until you get the result that feels best for you.
My notes:
Yarn: Vanna’s Choice
Hook: P (that’s right! I’m actually getting a nice puffy and airy fabric with mine)
2. Work up one of each block pattern. This gives you a chance to get to know each pattern and see how well they match up to each other. You’ll likely make some decisions at this point as to any changes you want to make. It is important that Blocks 1, 2, and 3 each come out to the same width and height. You can make alterations to the number of stitches in a row to increase or decrease width or change the number of rows to fix any problems with height.
Take notes, here are mine:
Honestly my attention span for a specific block wanes at a point, so I’ve decided to cut my row count short and I have square blocks as a result. I am sticking with the number of stitches in a given row (Block 1 has 26 and 2 &3 have 25). You may have noticed Block 1 has an extra stitch. I’ve noticed that this extra stitch helps make the denser single crochet block a better fit when matching it up to the other two, they have a bit more stretch in them.
My notes:
Block 1 : 25 rows compared to 33 in the pattern
Block 2 : 17 rows compared to 19 in the pattern
Block 3 : 17 rows compared to 19 in the pattern
3. Take some notes on sizing and gauge:
My notes:
Block 1 : 2 single crochet = 1”, 8 single crochet = 4”
8 rows = 4”
Block 2 : 2 double crochet = 1”, 8 double crochet = 4”
6 rows = 4”
Block 3 : 1 cluster = 1”, 4 clusters = 4”
8 rows = 6”
Each of my Blocks is a stretchy, airy 12” x 12″. That’s right, they are huge! (One of my cats thinks I’ve made her a bunch of little cushy square beds.) Finding the sweet spot for my attention span as well as the size and shape I want has made working up the blocks much more satisfying. You also might wish to take the finished size of your blanket into consideration when deciding on the number of stitches and rows to use in your blocks.
4. How big is my blanket going to be?
Given that I have such big blocks, I may reduce the number of blocks I’ll use. If I don’t my blanket will be 5 feet by 6 feet! Now that I think about it, that does sound mighty cozy…
So take a look at the blanket diagram in the pattern. The blanket is 5 blocks wide and 6 blocks tall.
Estimating the size of your blanket:
Width of a block ____ inches x 6 blocks wide = ____ inches wide (this is excluding any borders you might choose to add).
Height of a block ____ inches x 5 blocks tall = ____ inches tall.
If you want your blanket to be a different size, you can choose to add to the height or the width of the blanket with some more blocks.
5. How much yarn will I need?
My lazy method: I’ve assigned a skein of yarn to each block. I marked the label with “Block 1”, “Block 2”, “Block 3”. When I’ve used up a skein I’ll have an approximate idea as to how many of each type of block I’ll get out of a skein. I can then estimate how many more skeins to get.
The smarter method (I haven’t done this myself for this project yet, but here’s what you can do): Unravel a row or two of yarn and measure how much yarn was used. Then multiply by number of rows in your block and you’ve got a total for a block:
Estimating Yarn Needed:
Block 1: 1 row = _____ inches/ feet of yarn
Block 2 : 2 rows (1 row of dc and 1of sc) = _____ inches/ feet of yarn
Block 3: 2 rows (1 row of cluster and 1 of sc) = _____ inches/ feet of yarn
There’s still more to talk about, I know! I hope concentrating on this gauge issue has helped sort out any concerns, but most importantly I hope you all feel inspired to crochet the blanket that is “just right” for you!
Posted in Community, Crochet-Along, Crocheting | 50 Comments »
In the July 15th episode of YarnCraft, entitled Oops! Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them, we shared our mistake stories and the stories of our listeners. We also offered pointers on how to fix (and also avoid) some common mistakes.
Here are a few pointers:
1. For knitters, dropped stitches can be a real issue. Follow the directions in our Learning Center to pick a stitch back up. More advanced? You can even purposely drop a stitch that is a knit instead of a purl and vice versa and pick it up in order to fix it.
2. Another tip for knitters is ripping back stitch by stitch so as not to drop any stitches in between. Directions can be found here in our Learning Center.
3. Crocheters, if you made a mistake and need to rip back, use a safety pin or a stitch marker to hold the stitch that you want to rip up to, that way you don’t rip back too far. Putting them on a stitch just before a section of pattern that you’re a little unsure about can give you some sense of security–it’s a little bit like on the show “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire”, where once you reach the $1,000 and the $32,000 marks, you know that you can’t walk away with less than those amounts. That’s basically what the markers will do for you.
4. Knitters, you can achieve a similar effect as #3 by using a lifeline, thread a piece of waste yarn (in another color so that it’s easier to see) through the stitches on a line just before a difficult part of the pattern, so that you know that if you rip back, you won’t rip behind this row.
5. Check your gauge! Both knitters and crocheters often have problems that can easily solved by checking gauge before starting the project–see my previous post for more info on gauge and its uses.
For this episode, which also includes a segment on great online resources, listen here [MP3].
Posted in Tips & How To, YarnCraft Podcast | 2 Comments »
On the YarnCraft podcast, our bi-weekly audio show, we cover topics from common questions to tips on gift ideas. In YarnCraft episode #15, we devoted the episode to answering questions sent in by listeners like you! My co-host Liz and I were joined by Jackie Smyth, technical editor here at Lion Brand, who helped us answer the following questions:
The answer to ALL of these questions is often gauge. Gauge will affect the size of your pattern; it will affect the way your fabric looks; wrong gauge can cause your fabric to misbehave and curl.
So what is gauge? Gauge is the term that is used to define the proper tension you should work your piece in order to make sure that your piece’s dimensions will match up to those specified in a pattern. It’s usually given as stitches by rows versus the measurement that they should create (say 18 sts by 24 rows over 4 by 4 inches).
To make a gauge swatch, knit or crochet a piece that’s at least 4 inches by 4 inches in the stitch specified by the gauge section of the pattern. Then compare your stitches and rows to the number specified by the pattern to make 4 inches in both directions. The key here is that you do NOT have to adjust how tightly you knit or crochet.
If you have too few stitches and rows, use a smaller hook/smaller needles and remake your swatch. If it’s correct, then you should use this new hook/needle size. If you have too many stitches/rows, go up a hook/needle size and remake your swatch. Again, if it’s now correct, then use this new needle/hook size. If it’s still too many stitches, adjust your needle/hook size again. For a more in-depth guide on gauge, visit our website for knit gauge and crochet gauge instructions.
For more tips, ideas, and inspiration from individual podcast episodes, visit the YarnCraft Podcast Blog.
Posted in Crocheting, Knitting, Tips & How To, YarnCraft Podcast | 4 Comments »
Q - I found a pattern that I love but it is designed with Wool-Ease and I’m giving it as a gift to someone who is highly allergic to wool. Can you please suggest an alternate yarn that will work with this pattern?
A - You can find a list of yarns that can be substituted for any Lion Brand yarn on our Substitution Chart. In this case, you may want to substitute Lion Organic Cotton or Nature’s Choice (both organic) or you might choose Cotton-Ease or Vanna’s Choice, all completely wool-free. Keep in mind that the importance of creating a gauge swatch before starting most projects, is especially important when you are substituting yarn.
Posted in Tips & How To, Yarns | Leave a comment »
