Lion Brand Notebook
News, Ideas and Information for Crafting with Yarn
Lion Brand Notebook
News, Ideas and Information for Crafting with Yarn
I can remember over 20 years ago when I was in college (and working part-time in a yarn shop!) that some knitting stitch patterns were starting to written in chart form. I had always knitted cable and lace patterns with instructions that wrote out what to do row by row. I was used to doing that, but once I learned how to read charts, I found them to actually be much easier to follow. Quite a few of you have asked for charts for the stitch patterns in the Inishturk sweater pattern since they were not included. I knew I would like them, too. So, this week we have charts for the 3 larger cable patterns.
I’ve decided to include a little tutorial about how to read charts for those of you who have never tried them. So, below is a chart for Cable C:
This chart is a visual of the written instructions for Cable C. You can see that row numbers 1 and 3 are on the right of the chart and rows 2 and 4 are on the left. So, for row 1 (the RS) you will work the chart from right to left. Then, row 2 (WS) is read from left to right. (For those of you who are working this sweater in the round, you will read every row of the chart from right to left, because you are going in a circle!)
Alright, each square is a stitch and depending whether you are on the right side or wrong side of your piece, will determine how you read the symbols that go with the chart. The symbols for these charts are can be found here [PDF; must have Adobe Reader (free at adobe.com) to open].
The stitches that are empty are worked as knit stitches on the right side and as purl stitches on the wrong side. The purl stitches that are indicated by a” - “on the right side are knit on the wrong side. So, now all you need to match up is the symbols to the cables on the charts. There are a lot of different variations of 2, 3, and 4 stitch cables in this pattern, so just match them carefully to each other to see which stitches are knit, purled and whether you hold that cable needle to the front or the back.
OK, so here is the chart for Panel A (As always, you can click outlined images, like the ones below, to enlarge):
And…ta-da, the chart for Panel B (Again, click the image to enlarge):
So, for those of you who have been wanting these charts - enjoy! I always find it always helps to enlarge those charts as you are working them. For those of you who have never done a chart, give it a try and you may find you like these visual instructions!
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Did you know that you can use our website to find stores in your neighborhood that sell Lion Brand yarns?
It’s very simple. Let me show you how - go to LionBrand.com and in the lower left hand corner of the page, enter your zip code. For example, I entered ‘07603′. Once you’ve entered your zip code, click search.
On clicking search, the Store Locater will show you stores that sell Lion Brand yarns around the zip code you entered. Each Lion Brand icon represents a local store that carries Lion Brand yarns. In this example, there ten stores around 07603 that sell Lion Brand yarns. Simply click on the closest Lion Brand icon from the blue pin to reveal the name of the store and its address. AC Moore seems to be the closest store.
When you click on the ‘Click for directions’ link shown above, you’ll be directed to a page that will even give you driving directions to that store from the zip code you entered!
Now that you know how to use the Store Locator, you’ll always know the closest place to purchase your favorite Lion Brand yarns. Go ahead and give it a try.
Have you used our Store Locator before? Have you found it useful? Please tell us about your experience. We love hearing from you!
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It has been a lot of fun to see so many of you already starting the Inishturk Sweater and sharing your ideas and experiences with the rest of us. Probably the hardest part of this sweater is the part I’m going to talk about today - going from the ribbing into all those cable patterns!
I found working the ribbing went just fine until I saw that I had to increase 22 stitches on that last ribbing row (which is a WS row). I’m making this pattern in the medium size that had me working 106 stitches for the ribbing. So I took my handy, dandy calculator and divided 106 by 22 and found out I should increase a stitch every 4.8181818 stitches! OK, that is pretty close to one increase every 5 stitches, so looking at the ribbing, I decided I would mark 22 of the ribs with pins — skipping one here and there. Then I just increased at the top of these ribs. I know that increasing doesn’t have to be perfectly even for this pattern, but they should be fairly evenly worked across that row. I worked my increases as “make 1” (m1) increases, but I also could have just knit into the front and back of those 22 stitches to increase, and that would be fine for this pattern. I just wanted to make sure I didn’t have “holes” where I made my increases (which would happen if you worked your increases as yarn overs).
So, I finally had my 128 stitches to work my patterns. I carefully worked the set-up row and the following row which had me just knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches. Then on Row 3 of the back, with stitch markers in hand, I carefully worked that row, placing stitch markers on my needle on each side of the larger cable patterns. Until these patterns are established (and even after that!) these markers will make sure that my patterns will line up - and just make knitting them a whole lot easier.
Another way I sorted out the patterns was to place different color markers on my needle on the side of each type of cable. Then I wrote down the color and corresponding cable on a sticky note and attached it to my pattern.
This sweater is a beautiful combination of some very different, but traditional Aran cable patterns. However, not only do these patterns have a different number of stitches, but rows as well! Some of you have been keeping track of that with Excel or another spreadsheet program — but here’s something to remember: the largest of these panels (Panel B) has 16 rows. All the other patterns have row repeats that go into 16: some have 2 rows, some have 4 rows, and Panel A has 8 rows. What this means is: every time I start Row 1 of that large Panel B, I should also be on Row 1 of all the other patterns.
Now as for that center Panel B — I have been following the row instructions written, but I do love charts. So, I’ve decided that this week I will make charts and share them with you next week. For those of you who have never worked charts before, I’ll include a little tutorial on how to do that as well. Meantime, keep those stitch markers and row counters at hand!
Don’t have a row counter? If you go to the pattern on LionBrand.com, you’ll notice that there’s a built-in row-counter right on the pattern page! It’s handy if you are working on your sweater near a computer OR on a mobile device.
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Did you know that when you need help from Lion Brand, there are many options for contacting us?
If you would like to place an order and you would rather call than order directly online, you can call (800) 258-9276. This number is available 24/7
If you have questions about your order or need assistance ordering call customer service at (800) 661-7551. Customer service is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mon-Fri.
Our website has a wealth of information here. Each one of the help tabs has a list of commonly asked questions several categories.
If you have questions about a pattern or stitch, need help reading a pattern or any technical knit or crochet questions, the fastest way to get an answer is by emailing us at support@lionbrand.com. You may also call us for technical help at (800) 705-8636. This line is open weekdays from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
The Lion Brand Yarn Studio is our one-of-a-kind retail store in Manhattan. If you want to know their hours or information about classes and workshops held at the store, you can check out the website but if you need additional information about yarns carried in that store, events and other information beyond what you find on the site, call (212) 243-9070.
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Each month in The Weekly Stitch, our e-newsletter, we’re featuring hints and tips from our friend, knitting & crochet designer and author, Barbara Breiter. Below are excerpts from her latest two articles, useful for both knitters & crocheters. Interested in learning more? Click their titles to read them for yourself.
Making Sizing Changes to Scarves and Throws
You have a throw pattern with a beautiful stitch pattern, but you’d like to make it wider or narrower. Or perhaps you’d like to make it into a scarf. Maybe the converse is true…you’d like to change a scarf into a throw.
It’s not as difficult as it may seem, even if you are a beginner!
There are two vital concepts that must be understood to accomplish this…
Understanding Common Pattern Terms
A pattern is a blueprint for a project. A well-written pattern doesn’t intentionally confuse you. If you find something confusing, keep in mind that sometimes the pattern is simply trying to convey information to help you. The term might be an industry standard, but one that you’ve never come across before.
Here are some terms and concepts, commonly used but also commonly confusing to many knitters and crocheters…
Want more tips from Barbara? Subscribe to The Weekly Stitch.
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It is a thrill for me to host another Knit-Along with all of you! I am really looking forward to making this great Aran knit pullover named the Inishturk Sweater. It didn’t take long for me to decide to make this one for myself. It has been quite the winter so far, and still a lot of winter to go. I’m really anxious to get started and make a new sweater — and I hope you are, too!
I have printed my pattern for the Inishturk Sweater, and you can print your copy out anytime you wish. Now, what size to make? Many times, my knitting students have wondered what size to make a sweater for themselves and I tell them to measure a sweater they already love to wear. I have a favorite pullover that is one I wear again and again. I measured across its chest and it was 21″ — so it is a 42″ bust. Looking at the sizes of the Inishturk sweater, I’ve decided to make the medium, which is a 44″.
I’ve decided to make this great Aran knit in the Fishermen’s Wool, because I love to work cables in a natural fiber or a yarn that has some wool in it. The cables just seem to look better in a fiber like wool. I chose the Oatmeal color that will go with almost anything I will wear. For my size, I will just need 3 skeins of the Fishermen’s Wool!
Fishermen’s Wool is a “Category 4″ medium worsted-weight yarn. If you don’t want to use the Fisherman’s Wool, there are other great yarns that would be great with this pattern. Other yarns I think would be great would be Wool-Ease (a washable wool-blend), Vanna’s Choice (with its huge array of colors), or Cotton-Ease (with its cool hand and great drape) to name a few. (The latter two are good choices for those who are sensitive or allergic to wool.) Any yarn that gives a gauge of between 16-18 sts =4″ will work, but solid colors will show the cables the best.
Once you have your pattern, yarn, and know what size you would like, a swatch will be what will guarantee a sweater that fits. Although there are different stitch patterns used in this pattern, the gauge is given for the Double Seed Stitch pattern.
Now, here is the thing about swatching with the Double-Seed Stitch — and I only know this because I remember panicking while knitting a project I made using that stitch pattern years ago – I thought I would show you what happens when I work that stitch alone:
It can slant! Not to worry, because when this stitch is dampened or worked within a pattern, it straightens out. So, here is how I did my swatch. I cast on 26 stitches and knitted for 5 or 6 rows, then I knit 3, worked the next 20 stitches in the pattern, and knitted the last 3. I kept the garter stitch border, worked my pattern for 4″ then, knitted for another 5 or 6 rows and bound off:
Then, I dampened and dried the swatch and all I had to do is measure between the garter stitch border.
(1/26/10 - Swatch photo updated; original swatch photo was squished by the scanner.)
What size gave me the gauge? A US 10 — glad I made this swatch as my sweater would have been much too small for me with the recommended US 8.
So, I’m ready to cast on and happy we can do it together!
How are your swatches turning out? Have you cast on your sweater yet? Let us know!
Don’t forget to join our Ravelry or Flickr groups for discussion forums, sharing your photos, and more!
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Did you know that you can read blog posts only on the topics you are interested in? Some of you wrote that you want to read about crocheting but not knitting (or visa versa.) Maybe you want to look at the history of the “knit-alongs” or look at the off-beat news from the “yarniverse”. To read posts on just those topics, just look at the right sidebar under the word “categories.” Click on the topic you want to follow and read all about it.
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For both crocheters and knitters, learning to read a pattern can be like learning a different language. However, if you take things step-by-step, reading a pattern can be easy. For this example,
follow along with the Ruffle Colors Scarf.
1. Read the gauge information. Click here for more information on making a gauge swatch.
2. Write out what every abbreviation means. Stitch explanations can be found in the “Stitch Explanation” section above the main body of the pattern and in the “Abbreviations/References” section at the bottom of the pattern. For example, the Ruffle Color Scarf begins, “Ch 177. Row 1: Work 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across” In this case, you would write, “Chain 177. Row 1: Work 2 double crochets into the 3rd chain from your crochet hook. Work 2 double crochets in every chain across the row.”
3. Focus on one stitch at a time. It’s easy to read the entire row and get a little overwhelmed. Doing each stitch individually allows you to stay focused and makes each row a lot more manageable.
4. Write out the repeats. Many patterns include repeats. For example, Row 3 says, “Ch 3, turn, dc in same sp, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * across.” In this case, it may be beneficial to write out, “Double crochet twice in the next stitch. Double crochet in the next stitch. Double crochet twice in the next stitch. Double crochet in the next stitch.” This is especially helpful when the pattern repeat includes 3 or more stitches.
With those 4 easy steps, you can be on your way to reading patterns!
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Did you know that you can now use your Facebook ID to write comments in our blog? And you’ll also have the option of posting your comment to your Facebook wall if you choose!
Here’s how you can do that. You may have noticed a blue icon with the word Connect in the comments section of each blog post.
Simply click on the blue icon and sign in with your Facebook ID. Doing so will let us remember you next time you visit our blog.
Once logged in with your Facebook ID, you can leave comments on any blog posts without having to enter your details each time. Facebook will also prompt you to publish your comment to your Facebook wall.
Once you enter your comment and click publish, your comment will be simultaneously posted to our blog…
…and your Facebook wall where it will be visible to all your Facebook friends!
Isn’t that neat? Go ahead and try it, log on with your Facebook ID and leave us a comment below 
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Q: I ran out of yarn and the store where I purchased it no longer has the same dye lot. If I have to purchase more in a different dye lot, how do I make the color change less noticeable?
A: If you have run out of yarn, try taking a small sample (such as a swatch or a clipping) with you when purchasing additional yarn. Select the yarn that best matches your original yarn. Remember that colors can look very different depending on lighting, so try to view the yarn in both natural and artificial light if possible. Once you have a sufficient amount of yarn, alternate between the different dye lots every two rows. This will make any color change less noticeable.
Remember that the best way to avoid a dye lot dilemma is to check dye lots at the time of purchase and to buy enough for your project AND any samples or gauge swatches that you might want to make before starting. Once you have purchased your yarn, it can be very difficult for the store to go back and match dye lots for you. Please note that LionBrand.com is unable to match dye lots from prior purchases.
Got a common question you need answered? Check out our FAQ page by clicking here.
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