Maggie Weldon is a crochet expert who loves to share her expertise with those wanting to master the art of crochet.
Make beautifully textured colorwork projects with this simple stitch! Maggie Weldon illustrates how to do front and back post double crochets, half double crochets, and single crochets. Watch the video below to learn these easy techniques:
If you’re reading this blog post in your email or an RSS reader, please click on the title to view the full blog post and video on our website.
If you’re still working on your crochet-along project, don’t fret! There’s no time limit and the blog posts stay up here on our blog. But just in case you need a little more motivation, here are a few finished projects to inspire you!
Angie, amood on Ravelry, made her chic version in heathery Heartland yarn:
Another Raveler, renizzardo, used the recommended colors for her stylish jacket:
Lion Brand Yarn Studio Manager Michelle joined in on the fun too–she made her cardigan in Unique in Passion Fruit, Oceania, and Moonshadows and Vanna’s Choice in Espresso and Dark Grey Heather for a darker palette.
Keep sharing your photos with us here and on Ravelry! We can’t wait to see your finished project!
We’ve teamed up with Kara at the Petals to Picots blog to bring you a new crochet-along with one of our newest patterns, in one of of our newest yarns! Kara has just announced she’ll be hosting the crochet-along for the Little Boy Blue Blanket made in Heartland. Kara starts the official CAL instructions tomorrow, and will be conducting the CAL through early December. This way, you have enough time to possibly turn this blanket into a holiday gift for someone!
There will be new instructions posted for the CAL every two weeks so that you’ll have enough time to work up each section. The pattern is considered an intermediate level, and requires knowledge of the single crochet (sc) and double crochet stitch (dc). There’s fun color work in the project, so it will be fun to see everything come together at the end.
There is an official Ravelry group for the CAL so you can share your progress, ask questions, chat with other members and more. Stop in, say hi to Kara and the rest of the group, and get ready to start a fun new crochet project! We look forward to seeing plenty of great projects.
Check out Petals to Picots tomorrow for the first set of instructions. Are you ready to get crocheting? Let us know if you’ll be participating in the comments below.
Hi guys! I see a lot of you have finished your cardigans already. Looking good! Don’t forget to post pictures.
[Editor’s Note: Click here to see photos in our Ravelry group, and if you’d like to leave a photo here on the blog, click in the commenting box and you’ll see a little “mountain range” icon. Click it to browse to your photo on your computer and upload it to your comment.]
I considered making the sleeves a little longer, but in the end, I decided in the end to make them the same length as in the pattern. However, if you’d like to lengthen your sleeves, it should be pretty easy to do.
The easiest way to lengthen the design is to just work the number of chains for your size and work even until your sleeve has however much longer that you’d like than the one in the pattern, then follow the pattern as set.
The pattern schematic tells us that the sleeve-to-armpit measurement is 9 inches for all sizes. Let’s say that I want my sleeve to be 16.5 inches (16 to 17 inches is a standard length for women’s sleeves). That’s 7.5 more inches. Our pattern gauge tells us that each row is 0.31 inches (4 inches ÷ 13 rows = 0.31 inches per row).
7.5 inches ÷ 0.31 inches per row = 24.19 rows
Our color repeat is ABCDED and each color is used for 2 rows, so 24 rows is two full sets of all of the colors. Therefore, I’d do 24 rows straight, before following the pattern as set. (If you want to make your sleeves longer or shorter, you may need to do a partial repeat of the color pattern, so be sure to plan for that.)
After the sleeves, I had all the pieces finished, so it was time to block. Don’t skip this step! It can make your garment look much more professionally-made and neaten up any uneven stitches. While you can block after your entire garment is done, many people find it helpful to block your garment before sewing it together, as this way you can correct the measurements of any part where your tension may have changed a little.
Hi everyone! I hope you guys had a great holiday weekend and those sweaters are coming along nicely! This week I was busy making the fronts of my cardigan. I know a few of you wondering about how the pockets join to the body, so we’ll start with that.
I had a little trouble joining the pockets, as I just assumed I knew what to do, so I didn’t read the pattern carefully, and kept wondering why I didn’t have enough stitches left at the end! Learn from my mistake! To join the pocket-lining, work the number of stitches required for your size, on the body of the cardigan as normal (this is a wrong side row, so it’s all in single crochet), then skip the first stitch of the pocket lining (this is where I kept going wrong!) and work across the top of the lining, skip the last stitch and skipping 17 body stitches from the first join, single crochet in the next body stitch and work to the end.